The city’s low birth rate and declining school enrolment is just another hurdle in the road for this 60-year-old school uniform shop
Paul Lam (right), who founded Kam Lun Tailors in 1961, and his son Peter are passionate about the importance of school uniforms. Photo: Jonathan WongIn his office above the Kam Lun Tailors shop in Mong Kok, Peter Lam, 60, carefully unpacks starched dresses and shirts from a large cardboard box. A bulging binder of embroidered school logo patches sits open on his desk, while a cabinet behind him bursts with rolls of cloth.
Downstairs, the family-run uniform shop bustles with students coming in to be outfitted for the new school year. This store – established by Peter’s father, Paul Lam, in 1961 – is deeply woven into the fabric of Hong Kong’s history.
For over 60 years, Kam Lun Tailors has served students from more than 200 of the city’s 2,178 day schools. Peter and his 96-year-old father Paul have witnessed Hong Kong’s dramatic transformations first-hand, as the shop has adapted to the evolving needs of students and schools alike.
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A long history and disappearing traditions
In 1918, St Paul’s Girls’ College – now renamed as St Paul’s Co-educational College – became the first school in the city to formally mandate uniforms.
Uniforms soon evolved as designs changed with the times, reflecting historical events and technological advancements. They took on many styles, from the cheongsam to sailor suits and chequered uniforms.
From the 1950s to the 1970s, Hong Kong saw a surge in immigration; with it came a growing demand for school uniforms. It was this trend that spurred Paul to leave his job at a larger uniform company and start Kam Lun.
As Hong Kong continued to evolve, the business bloomed. “The mid-80s to mid-90s were the most flourishing times for us,” Peter said, referring to the city’s “golden age” of growth.
Recently, however, Kam Lun has been caught in a tide of change – one that, according to Peter, has split the realm of school uniforms into two camps: “established schools” and “newly formed schools”.
Many historical secondary schools “appreciate the traditional old Hong Kong style ... [and] want to maintain their traditions”, Peter said, pointing out the blue cheongsam at St Stephen’s Girls’ College.
Newer schools, on the other hand, have mostly abandoned styles of the past.
Unfolding a uniform shirt with two different chequered patterns, Peter said, “They have changed track and adopted all these fancy fashions.”
“Even some old schools have come up with totally different styles,” he added.
Logos have been especially affected. “All the schools used to have big logo badges on their uniforms,” Peter said, “but the recent trend has been to make them very small.”
Only a few of Kam Lun’s clients keep their logo badges. He said: “We joke that it’s because nobody will be able to identify students if they make trouble outside of school.”
He observed that many pupils preferred hoodies instead of logo blazers. Practical concerns play a part: blazers are not known for their warmth or comfort; thus, many schools have embraced padded jackets and windbreakers.
No matter the reason, these changes have been a loss for the company.
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Looking towards the future
In recent years, Kam Lun has also faced other difficulties. As Hong Kong’s birth rate declines and schools see decreasing enrolment, the company has also seen its clientele begin to shrink.
Hiring younger workers for their in-house sample workshop has also been difficult, as Kam Lun’s current sewing staff are in their 60s or older.
Even after six decades, Paul still diligently works at the office. But with his grandchildren pursuing other careers, there is no third generation to inherit the firm.
The rise of other manufacturers focusing on trendier, innovative designs also makes it difficult for old-school tailors like Kam Lun to compete.
“We’ve lost quite a bit of business in that area,” Peter admitted, “because we don’t go out and sell or propose trendy designs just to get clients. We’re also not interested in branching out into fashion, or even corporate uniforms. It’s not our field.”
He continued: “Tradition is our strength that we always emphasise. Yet we dare not say that we will only do the old styles because we cannot survive like that.”
“So in the future, we must do our best to keep up with the trend yet maintain tradition.”
Despite recent challenges, Peter feels reassured about the continued existence of Hong Kong school uniforms.
“Uniforms will always be the same in the end – [a mix of] old-school and new styles together,” he said. “So we’ll keep going in the same mode as long as we can survive.”
Amid all these changes, Peter hopes that students will appreciate the meaning behind the uniforms they wear.
He explained that uniforms are “about following rules that promote unity” because they represent an image of a school’s history and unique character.
“Love your school uniform,” he advised. “When you’re a student, you might not appreciate it too much, but once you leave school, you might realise that it was part of the best, most valuable time of your life.”
“Appreciate it because it serves as part of your memories.”
birth rate 出生率
the number of births every year for every 1,000 people in the population of a place
branching out 拓展
to start doing an activity that you have not done before
bulging 鼓起
describes something that sticks out in a round shape
bustling 熱鬧
full of people moving about in a busy way
reassured 安心
to feel relieved or confident that things will turn out as expected
spurred 激勵
encouraged or motivated to take action
starched 上漿(用澱粉漿使衣服筆直)
describes clothes that have been treated with starch to make them stiff