Santa Anita Park might be the single greatest piece of evidence in the case against racecourse redevelopment, and this last month a clash of cultures that may never be repeated added another chapter to a track already steeped in tales of the turf, or more predominately, dirt.
At Santa Anita the seats are still wood and metal, the 340-metre-long main grandstand appears to have been unchanged for 80 years and, although renovated in the 1960s, it retains the charm of yesteryear.
It is still painted in the original Persian green and chiffon yellow, colours that have carried through depression years and time as a second world war camp. The grandstand’s exposed rafters and metal railings echo history.
For the past month the track has been the home of Hong Kong visitor Rich Tapestry – a horse at the centre of a drugs-in-racing debate, but more importantly an example of trainer Michael Chang Chun-wai’s ambition, vision and horsemanship.
But firstly the setting, there might be more historic racetracks, and maybe prettier, but is there one combining both, as well as the southern Californian venue?
When the golden afternoon light falls on the sweeping vista of mountains that seem to loom above the track, you think “they should make movies here”.
Wait, they did? Marx Brothers 1937 classic A Day at the Races was set at Santa Anita, while HBO’s short-lived series Luck and it assortment of loveable degenerate rogues, was also shot at the track.
Seabiscuit really did have his last start here – so it saved moviemakers plenty of money when it came to shooting this scene. Hey, at least the racetrack looks realistic, even if the casual conversation between jockeys rounding the turn seems a little far-fetched.
Let’s throw in this clip of late-night host Conan O’Brien’s trip to the track and attempt at racecalling with on-course announcer Trevor Denman, just because it is funny.
The thing about Santa Anita, aside from retaining heritage, is it lacks nothing in the way of comfort or flow. Maybe when you are sitting on a bench, the view, sense of history and overall beauty distract you from the fact it is a touch uncomfortable.
The stables are as antiquated as the grandstand. Nearly 2,000 horses are trained at the course, but there were a few things different about the unique visitor in barn No 96.
Rich Tapestry was the first horse to come from Hong Kong to the west coast of the United States, and he might be the last – despite his success early last month.
For what it is worth, Rich Tapestry’s airfreight alone cost his owners US$100,000. So given nomination fees, flights for staff, owners and accommodation – Rich Tapestry’s win in a US$300,000 Group One may have only just covered costs.
It’s hardly an attractive option given the stake money available at home – and it’s only Rich Tapestry’s speciality that allowed him a passport to the Breeders’ Cup through the “win and you’re in” status of the Santa Anita Sprint Championship.
Even if Rich Tapestry’s trip was barely a break-even exercise financially it may have been worth it in terms of experience for the owners, Chang and his two-man travelling team of track rider Vincent Sit Shun-keung and mafoo Irving Chan Chak-ming.
And even if there is a world of difference between Santa Anita and Sha Tin, there were some home comforts for Chang, Sit and Chan.
Sit and Chan were stationed in California for more than a month, and in their down time were surprised to find some authentic, if a little Americanised, Cantonese. Chow mein, rice, plenty of pork dishes and milk tea – all served in ridiculously large portions.
It was surreal watching news updates of Hong Kong’s Occupy protests, surrounded by what appeared to be Hongkongers happily indulging in traditional mid-morning dim sum, then stepping outside into sunny, suburban Los Angeles with its palm trees and parking lots.
But by far the best part of a visit to Arcadia’s Garden Cafe was meeting a Spanish-speaking Mexican waiter, who couldn’t speak a word of English, but was able to sound out solid Cantonese, tricky tones and all, and carry a conversation with the racing visitors.
There was an advertisement on a placemat at the cafe giving some insight into a niche commingling could uncover – and where east meets west, or maybe that should be, when east meets east, in the west. American betting operator Xpressbet was advertising in Chinese to potential customers to bet on Hong Kong.
More than 40 per cent of Arcadia’s residents are Chinese-American, according to the 2012 Census, and there are more than 500,000 Chinese-Americans living in Los Angeles. New York has even more people with Chinese heritage. The impact of commingling has been downplayed from a turnover perspective, but those aren’t insignificant numbers.
It seemed a few of the locals must have got the tip about Rich Tapestry, too, then ventured down to Santa Anita to have a bet on Saturday –with the horse smashed in betting from as much as $7 to start $2.50, before finishing last.
So even if Santa Anita seemed a million miles from Sha Tin, and stylistically it certainly is, there were still some familiar features. If the saccharine sweet milk tea from the nearby cafe didn’t make you feel at home, the price stomping certainly did.
