Watches & Wonders Geneva 2021’s biggest brand reveals: Rolex, Patek Philippe and Tudor all unveil green-tinted models, while Cartier, IWC and Panerai lead the smaller timepiece trend

May 31 , 2021

Watches & Wonders Geneva 2021 saw Rolex, Patek Philippe and Tudor all unveil green-tinted models, while Cartier, IWC and Panerai lead the smaller timepiece trend. Photo: Handout

Patek Philippe discontinued the blue-dial Nautilus 5711 but now there’s a green dial take to lust after, while Rolex’s Datejust 36 carries a new palm leaf motif

Gem-set watches were hot at this year’s digital show, with glittering pieces including Chanel’s J12, Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie and Hermès’ Faubourg Polka

The digitisation of this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders seems to have rendered obsolete the practice of buyers putting their names on lists and waiting months for the year’s latest launch to arrive in boutiques. Perhaps thanks to the fact they were able to focus their resources and attention on production rather than creating a physical spectacle, a number of brands have been able to coincide product availability with announcements of their novelties at the fair.

While this isn’t the case for all brands, the likes of Panerai and Tudor are already putting watches on wrists almost as quickly as – if not sooner than – images of the watches go online.

The watch fair, however, remains a place where innovations are offered and new ground is broken, and a number of watchmakers tease at new developments and future direction.

However the brand chooses to play it, what remains unchanged is the clear indication of prevalent trends that will be sure to lead the industry in the next few years to come.

Green machines

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A. Photo: Patek Philippe

One of the most obvious trends to pick up on each year is the hue or hues leading brands seem to silently – yet collectively – lean towards. Green shoots have been sprouting throughout the industry in the past few years, but in 2021 the colour has burst into full bloom.

Patek Philippe discontinued the 5711/1A-010, the Nautilus with a blue dial, earlier in the year. Fans of the stainless steel reference now have a new waiting list to put their name on. The 5711/11A-014 features the same recognisable stainless steel case and strap, but with an olive green dial. The watchmaker also launched a version of this piece with a diamond bezel.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K. Photo: Tudor

Tudor’s new Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is a departure from the brand’s no-fuss utilitarian identity. At first glance, it appears as though the brand has launched yet another bronze reference, this time paired with a green dial, bezel and two green straps that give a distinct military feel. But as the name suggests, the case is fashioned out of brushed 18 carat yellow gold, albeit with a tinge of green. This helps propel it into a bracket that – price-wise – is the most ambitious Tudor launch ever. As for within the 39mm case, an in-house automatic movement is backed by 70 hours of power reserve, all protected by a sapphire crystal caseback.