How to maintain ageless skin: new methods go beyond treating wrinkles to focus on retaining a healthy, youthful radiance, as Estée Lauder and La Mer move from cosmetics to a cellular level

May 1 , 2024

Skincare is undergoing a shift as big-name brands move from the purely cosmetic to a cellular level with their products, helping the skin retain a healthy and youthful radiance for longer. Photo: Handout

Brands like Helena Rubinstein, Biologique Recherche and La Prairie are redefining skincare by focusing on overall skin health rather than just combating signs of ageing

Research focuses on proteins such as sirtuins, crucial for cellular health and longevity, and suggests antioxidants such as vitamins C and E are key

A transformative shift is unfolding in skincare, departing from the age-old quest to merely combat signs of ageing towards a more holistic vision. Gone are the days when skincare routines were dominated by the singular goal of erasing wrinkles and fine lines; today, the narrative is expanding to encompass the vitality, endurance and robustness of the skin throughout one’s life.

That’s where skin longevity emerges as a pivotal concept, embodying the idea that our skin can be nurtured to maintain its youthful vitality well beyond the superficial markers of ageing. Unlike traditional anti-ageing approaches that often focus on cosmetic fixes, skin longevity emphasises preventive care, addressing the root causes of ageing at a cellular level.

“It advocates for a regimen that supports the skin’s natural barrier, enhances its ability to recover from environmental stressors and promotes healthy cellular functions,” says Nicole McCarter, a naturopathic doctor in Palo Alto. It’s a shift that shows a profound change in priorities: from fighting the inevitable to empowering the skin to thrive over time.

111Skin’s Y Theorem bio-cellulose facial mask

The anti-ageing narrative has long been marked by a relentless pursuit of youthfulness, often through superficial treatments and cosmetic solutions aimed at erasing wrinkles, fine lines and other age markers. “Serums, creams and procedures have been developed with the sole purpose of turning back the clock, focusing on the external appearance of the skin rather than its inherent health, triggering a reactionary response, addressing signs of ageing as they appear instead of preventing them from occurring in the first place,” says McCarter.

This new paradigm of skin longevity advocates for nurturing the skin in a way that supports its ability to maintain its vitality and function optimally, regardless of age. It’s a shift from the cosmetic to the cellular, from covering up to building up. At the heart of this revolution lies a groundbreaking area of research focused on longevity proteins, such as sirtuins, which play a pivotal role in cellular health and longevity. These proteins, present in nearly all living organisms, are essential components in the mechanisms that regulate ageing and cellular repair.

A range of skincare products from La Mer

“Sirtuins, in particular, have been identified as key players in maintaining cellular health, influencing processes such as DNA repair, inflammation reduction and the defence against oxidative stress. All factors that contribute to the ageing process of the skin,” says dermatologist Dr William Welborn Jr. Moreover, by mitigating oxidative stress and inflammation, “longevity proteins can help preserve the skin’s structural integrity, elasticity and resilience, countering the more visible signs of ageing such as wrinkles, sagging and pigmentation”.

In response to this evolving narrative, several prestigious brands have strategically moved away from the traditional “anti-ageing” terminology in their marketing efforts to highlight concepts like firming, nourishing and skin resilience. Esteemed labels such as La Mer, La Prairie, Biologique Recherche, Helena Rubinstein, 111Skin and Estée Lauder are at the forefront of this change, redefining skincare by focusing on the health and vitality of the skin rather than merely combating signs of ageing.