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Then & Now | Ready-to-wear fashion wasn’t always cheaper than bespoke – for women in Asia, clothes tailored by travelling couturiers were once the everyday choice

  • Unlike today, when ready-to-wear fashion is generally cheaper than bespoke, women in Asia in centuries past would employ travelling tailors for household dresses
  • These artisans would follow contemporary trends and use different fabrics to suit customer needs, at a time when standard-fit garments were the height of fashion

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A group of European mine officials and their wives in Southeast Asia in 1894. Unlike today, ready-to-wear was the height of fashion in years past, and tailored garments the everyday choice. Photo: Getty images

For those without personal memories of what older generations wore in earlier times, surviving period clothing helps us to better understand now-transformed domestic lifestyles.

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Among the first items usually dis­posed of when someone dies, everyday garments are soon forgotten, unless some­thing is retained for practical reuse, or for sentimental reasons by those with space to keep them.

Outfits that a person was photographed in were usually more formal, dress-up garments, rather than what was typically worn around the house or garden in everyday settings. If someone knew that a camera was lurking, they often asked not to be photographed until they’d changed into “something better”.

Consequently, photographic evidence for everyday household wear – especially in European contexts in Asia and Africa – was unusual until the 1930s.

A picture from 1813 shows a European lady giving instructions to the “darzi”, or Indian tailor, making her dress. Photo: Getty Images
A picture from 1813 shows a European lady giving instructions to the “darzi”, or Indian tailor, making her dress. Photo: Getty Images

From Kenya and Queensland to Malaya, Borneo and Hong Kong’s New Territories – wherever home sewing was the norm – period photographs reveal a surprising similarity in basic outfits worn by European women.

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