In India, women-led heritage walks spotlight Old Delhi’s centuries-old colourful ‘twisted’ history
- The walks aim to change male-centric narratives by adding women’s perspectives into Delhi’s historic spaces, such as the perception of courtesans and their homes
- While the names of India’s male rulers are part of the public consciousness, many powerful women are overlooked despite their contributions in history
On an unusually warm and smoggy December morning, Indian heritage walk organiser Anoushka Jain shepherded a group of 45 people through the chaotic lanes of Chawri Bazaar, introducing them to the historic sites and run-down buildings that have been a fixture of Old Delhi’s cityscape for centuries.
But these sightseers came not just to learn about the buildings, but also the women who once occupied and built those spaces.
Cutting through the piercing sounds of vehicles, Jain familiarised the group with tawaifs and their kothas, or courtesans and their residences, respectively. She said the tawaifs had often been misrepresented, with thousands of years of tradition associated with singing and dancing being reduced to prostitution by British colonisers.
“Our understanding of tawaifs come from Bollywood films, more or less,” the 28-year-old said after the walk, referring to Hindi-language films such as Sardari Begum, Umrao Jaan and Devdas. “We need to deconstruct that, and to break even one of the stereotypes is a big achievement.”
The tawaifs and kothas walk is part of several tours conducted by Enroute Indian History, an all-women heritage organisation Jain founded in 2019. The walks aim to change male-centric narratives by interjecting women’s perspectives into Delhi’s historic spaces.
The Indian capital houses dozens of heritage sites, including forts, monuments and mausoleums dedicated to Mughal dynasty emperors who ruled India from 1526 to 1857. While the names of the male rulers are part of the public consciousness, many powerful and influential women, despite their contributions in history, remain overlooked.
Standing in front of a 200-year-old mosque, Jain described the story of Mubarak Begum, a courtesan who married David Ochterlony, Delhi’s first British resident, and built a mosque under her name. She said women of the time often commissioned public service infrastructure to exert influence and gain respect, though people referred to Masjid Mubarak Begum as Rundi ki Masjid, or a “prostitute’s mosque”.
