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New Delhi’s oldest bookshop retains ‘poetic chaos’ and timeless charm: ‘here, books find us’

  • Faqir Chand Bookstore – now run by the founder’s great-grandson – retains the same character it had when it opened in 1951
  • The shop’s maze of books and lack of modern-day technology link customers to a ‘time gone forever’ in India’s fast-evolving capital city

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Abhinav Bamhi is the fourth-generation custodian of Faqir Chand Bookstore in Delhi’s Khan
Market. Photo: Bibek Bhandari

In New Delhi’s fast-evolving Khan Market, the Faqir Chand Bookstore is like a space frozen in time.

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Tucked between boutique fashion stores and buzzing restaurants, one of the oldest bookshops in India’s capital city mostly retains the same character it had when it opened in 1951. There are no windows or curated shelves, just hundreds of books, stacked on top of each other, while a photo of the late Faqir Chand keeps a watchful eye over the shop he first opened in Peshawar, present-day Pakistan, in 1931.

“They must have had a passion for reading, because after surviving something as disastrous as the Partition, they still had the courage to open a bookstore and not something that’s easier to sell,” said Abhinav Bamhi, 26, Faqir Chand’s great-grandson and a fourth-generation custodian of the shop.

Faqir Chand Bookstore in Khan Market was opened in 1951. Photo: Bibek Bhandari
Faqir Chand Bookstore in Khan Market was opened in 1951. Photo: Bibek Bhandari
Khan Market was designated as a commercial space for refugees from what was called the North-West Frontier Province, now Pakistan’s northernmost province, as the Partition divided India into two countries and displaced millions after independence from the British. Faqir Chand’s family was among the first settlers to be allotted space in the south Delhi neighbourhood, which has evolved into an upscale market with the highest retail rent in the country.

Bamhi has been a part of that change but said he finds solace knowing that the bookshop is one place where “time has stopped”. The subtle shade of yellow in its shutters, the font of the store’s name, and the maze of books inside the 1,500 square feet area (138 square metres), are all tinged with nostalgia for Bamhi and others who have frequented the shop for decades.

For writer Mayank Austen Soofi, who chronicles the city and its people in his blog The Delhiwalla, the bookshop is “a foothold to stability in the furiously transforming Indian capital”. He added that the shop and its owners offer a contrast to the stereotypical “social comedy of the upper classes” in Khan Market.

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“It is a tangible space linking us to times gone forever, but whose histories continue to aggressively shape our present,” he said. “At a time when we all are digging deeper into our echo chambers, here’s a bricks-and-mortar space in the real world giving a safe space to all.”

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