Meet the low-profile founder of Paris’ iconic Collette boutique – who’s finally embracing the limelight

Her Parisian concept store was a retail pioneer – now Sarah Andelman helps Pharrell and Chanel take a mindful approach to consumerism

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Published: 8:15am, 21 Nov 2024

Sarah Andelman. It’s hard to describe her to someone who doesn’t already know her name. Those who do, know her as someone recognised throughout the worlds of fashion and art for her impeccable taste. Yet Andelman has spent more than 10 years avoiding the spotlight, even as she has named Chanel, Hermès and Pharrell Williams among her many collaborators. When she started her agency, Just An Idea, in 2018, she told brands her role was behind the scenes rather than as the face of a project. Though, “over the years,” she says, “I recognised that brands wanted to involve me, to mention me, so I became a little more indifferent.” Now, she’s finally stepping into the limelight.

Sarah Andelman and Pharrell Williams. Photo: courtesy of Sarah Andelman

Recently, it seems that the latest collab comes right on the heels of another in a whirlwind of releases that no one can keep straight – and if someone says they can, they’re probably lying. Colette, Andelman’s first concept store in Paris, which served as a launch pad for much of her current work, is still referenced today by those in the know as the blueprint for both collaborative projects and exciting retail spaces. Despite Andelman being a pioneer when it comes to brands teaming up, she agrees that the practice looks quite different today. “It’s very rare I see a new sneaker and get excited,” she says. “I think the sense of surprise, the sense of the unexpected has become so rare because we’ve seen so much in the last few years.”

Releasing a product into the world comes with added responsibility now that consumers, aiming to make more sustainable choices, have started to examine their consumption habits. Andelman navigates this world with care. Just An Idea works with labels such as Moncler and Sacai to develop “special projects and collaborations which are meaningful for the brands and their customers”.

Sarah Andelman curated 50 lots from artists around the world to take part in Pharrell Williams’ Just Phriends auction. Photo: Grégory Copitet

Bare-faced, sporting her signature close-cropped pixie cut and an oversized black T-shirt by Verdy, Andelman seems reserved at first over our video call, but she lights up when I ask about her work. She’s been busy. Last year, she curated 50 lots from artists around the world to take part in Pharrell’s Just Phriends auction. Lots ranged from niche objects to fine art; one highlight being a sculpture by Pharrell and Takashi Murakami, titled The Simple Things (2008-2009), that sold for HK$21.73 million at Christie’s in Hong Kong in 2019. “I didn’t really know the world of auction [houses] and the markets,” she says candidly. “I tried to curate artists who worked with Pharrell in the past, who [made] sense with his history.” Whether it was strategic or pure serendipity, the auction took place in Paris the same week the American musician debuted his first collection for Louis Vuitton as its men’s creative director.

Sarah Andelman’s Mise en Page installation at Paris’ Le Bon Marché, created with artist Jean Jullien. Photo: courtesy of Sarah Andelman

This February, Parisian retailer Le Bon March invited Andelman to create an installation within the store. The shop historically invites guests, usually creatives or artists, to take over the windows and shop spaéce. “The difference [between the other guests and me] is that I never [think of myself] as a creative,” says Andelman. She brought a friend, artist Jean Jullien, on board and together they created an exhibition, titled “Mise en Page”, with books as the central theme. A powder-blue figure engrossed in reading towers above the display, featuring an array of books, Jullien-themed merchandise and homeware. Andelman herself makes several cameos – a cartoon version of her appears throughout the installation, her head buried in a book.

Today, she’s busy curating Art Basel’s first retail stores. “When Basel came to Paris for the first time [in 2022], I said to Clément Delépine [director of Art Basel Paris] that we can’t even buy a book in this Art Basel, which is not the case in Switzerland,” says Andelman. “When you think of all the galleries from Perrotin to Gagosian, they opened their stores, so there is a real space for art editions and books and products which are not the original …,” she trails off and gestures to a make-believe painting on the wall. “But I think they realised that Art Basel has become a brand.” The stores are unique to their locales, inspired by participating galleries and other exhibitions happening around the city.

The 2017 Anya Hindmarch window at Colette. Photo: courtesy of Sarah Andelman

Fresh off the fair in Paris, she’s headed to Miami in December to close out the year. She breaks out laughing. “Don’t ask me about Hong Kong!”

Though we may not see an Andelman special at Art Basel Hong Kong next March, her curatorial prowess can be experienced at Wrap It Up!, an interactive installation at the Landmark from Thursday to New Year’s Day. Building on the tradition of gift-wrapping during the holiday season, Andelman has brought together 10 artists from around the world to create a series of special-edition ribbon designs and ornaments. Asian artists Chen Fenwan, Forlee Bean, Kasing Lung and Ribbonesia sit alongside names from farther afield, including Nina Chanel Abney, Pieter Ceizer, FriendsWithYou, Gabriela Noelle, Katerina Jebb and André Saraiva (Mr A). Japanese fashion brand Sacai is collaborating with chef Richard Ekkebus of Amber on a limited-edition cake.