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The future of timekeeping? Patek Philippe and more watchmakers are combining artistry and technical skill in unique complications, from jumping hours to ultra-thin wonders

A different beat (from left): Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing prototype, SpaceOne Tellurium and Otsuka Lotec No.6. Photos: Hodinkee Japan
A different beat (from left): Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing prototype, SpaceOne Tellurium and Otsuka Lotec No.6. Photos: Hodinkee Japan
XXIV

Andersen Genève, Urwerk, Otsuke, SpaceOne and Konstantin Chaykin all bring their creativity to bear on telling the time in a distinctive way

Though watches are broadly leaning towards the understated and subtle, one of the best ways watchmakers can showcase their technical ability and artistic creativity is by taking three left turns to show time in a revolutionary new way.

Andersen Gèneve Jumping Hours Black Stone. Photo: Handout
Andersen Gèneve Jumping Hours Black Stone. Photo: Handout

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Stone is a case in point, using the “jumping hours” complication that shows the hours in a single window in a rotating dial, and going down to one hand for minutes. The piece is an exercise in simplicity – easy on the eye and bursting with intrigue.

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Urwerk EMC Sr-71. Photo: Handout
Urwerk EMC Sr-71. Photo: Handout

In the sci-fi-esque Urwerk EMC SR-71 Blackbird, traditional dials are given a twist, not only making use of metal from the classic Cold War era reconnaissance plane, but taking inspiration from its flight gauges to show hours, minutes and power reserve on separate faces.

Trilobe L’Heure Exquise Edition Secret. Photo: Handout
Trilobe L’Heure Exquise Edition Secret. Photo: Handout

The Trilobe L’Heure Exquise was released at this year’s Watches and Wonders as a limited edition run of 100 pieces, including the starry Secret Edition pictured here. Housed in Grade 5 titanium, the dial uses three rotating discs to tell the time, while the moonphase dial ticks with the seconds.

The retrograde watch does use a hand to tell the time, but it does not fully rotate so much as mechanically snap back at the end of the cycle.

Otsuka Lotec No.6. Courtesy: Hodinkee Japan. Photo: Handout
Otsuka Lotec No.6. Courtesy: Hodinkee Japan. Photo: Handout

The Otsuka Lotec No 6 and Patek Philippe 5160/500R-001 show this complication in very different aesthetic contexts. The former is almost surgical in its design with brushed metal and needle-esque hands showing the time, no nonsense, no fuss.

Josiah Ng
Josiah Ng is a content editor on the SCMP’s Specialist Publications team. He serves as the team's go-to expert on watches as the editor of XXIV, the Post’s annual prestige publication covering high horology. Additionally, he writes, edits and commissions pieces on restaurants, bars, culture, business, finance and more. Raised in Hong Kong, Josiah has previously covered music and finance at leading publications including Time Out Hong Kong and Debtwire respectively, and gained experience in the banking and consulting industries before joining SCMP in 2022.