Exotic stone dial watches are staging a comeback: why vintage and modern models by Piaget, Audemars Piguet and Rolex – adorned with stones such as jade, onyx and malachite – are in great demand
Once considered a relic of the hippie era, watches with dials made from exotic stones, like turquoise lapis lazuli and opal, are enjoying a renaissance – the world’s luxury watchmakers are taking note
The glamorous antithesis of staid luxury steel sports watches, timepieces featuring stone dials – crafted from the likes of malachite, turquoise, carnelian and onyx – are experiencing a rock-solid resurgence.
Among the first Swiss manufacturers to embrace the artistry of stone dials fully was Piaget. Starting in the early 1960s, Piaget’s dials featured painstakingly thin slices – often just 1mm thick – of lapis lazuli, jade, opal, rubellite, tiger’s eye and many more. These timepieces were adored by the international jet set elite, who could commission custom dials from a kaleidoscopic palette of about 30 exotic stones.
While Piaget’s vintage stone dial watches are coveted by collectors, so too are the maison’s contemporary interpretations, such as the Limelight Gala women’s watch with malachite dial that features in the current prêt-à-porter collection. Piaget has also recently issued malachite dial iterations of its Altiplano line, including a four-piece, limited-edition tourbillon unveiled in 2018.
The allure of jade remains unsurprisingly strong in Asia; watchmakers cater to this demand despite jade’s delicate nature and the challenges of preserving its vibrant green hue during the polishing process. For those with a taste for this unconventional material, H. Moser & Cie’s Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade makes for a striking choice. Limited to only 100 pieces, this 40mm red-gold watch features a natural olive jade dial sourced from the rugged terrain of Wyoming – a remarkable example of (far) east meets (American) west.
Watch industry legend Jean-Claude Biver has a long history with exotic stone dials. “I started working with these materials back in 1973 when I joined Audemars Piguet, where they used a lot of lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye and other such stones,” he said. “I learned then that these materials are unique: no two dials in lapis are identical. Even though they may both be blue, each one is different from the next.”
When Biver set out to launch his eponymous brand with his son Pierre, two years ago, he thought, “Why not revisit these materials, especially since nearly no one is using them today? Number one, that gives us a certain exclusivity. And number two, it allows us to offer each customer a unique piece, because the dial makes up roughly 75 per cent of a watch’s appearance; it is central to the experience.” With exotic stone dials, he said, “We can offer exclusivity to each customer.”
In the inaugural timepieces under his new brand, Biver has integrated a variety of these geological curiosities, including obsidian, sodalite, pietersite, tsavorite and delicate jade. “I do believe in the influence of these stones on one’s character and mood, even luck, although I wouldn’t promote this too heavily,” Biver said, “because science tells us these materials have no real influence. Still, I believe what people believed 5,000 years ago. I remain a believer.”