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Opinion / How luxury brands Gucci, Versace and Mercedes-Benz are engaging LGBT shoppers with genderless designs, Pride campaigns and supporting organisations like The Trevor Project

Dolce & Gabbana’s Love is Love campaign aims to foster inclusivity. Photo: Dolce&Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana’s Love is Love campaign aims to foster inclusivity. Photo: Dolce&Gabbana

  • Gucci’s gender-fluid MX collection and Daniel Lee’s designs for Bottega Veneta represent long overdue industry progress
  • But mainstream brands need to do more than celebrate Pride Month, and work to show a lasting, year-round commitment to the LGBT community

In many of my columns, publications and classes, I have compared luxury with love.

What inspired me to use this analogy was a seminar I organised for a luxury car brand in Tokyo. At the start of the workshop, I asked each participant to share a personal story about what luxury means to them. One participant smiled when she pointed at her Hermès Birkin bag and, almost a little shy because of the attention of her colleagues towards the pricey bag, said: “I never really like to buy expensive things, but I fell in love with this bag.” Her eyes were dilating, she could not stop smiling, and subsequently she described her affection for the bag as “I am in love”.
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Why does this matter? Because it highlights one of the most important tasks for luxury brands: creating extreme value in the eyes of consumers. A value so extreme and unique, that people compare it with falling in love. This also means that brands need to remind themselves that they are the ones initiating the relationship. As with any romantic involvement, things tends to end fast when one of the partners does not feel valued. Since the luxury brands initiate the relationship through their storytelling, it’s their responsibility to nurture it.

Luxury brands cannot ignore the needs of the Gen Z population. Photo: Getty Images
Luxury brands cannot ignore the needs of the Gen Z population. Photo: Getty Images

Too many brands, even in the luxury space, have been traditionally transactional, often even arrogant. I remember a much-talked about study published in 2014 even recommending an arrogant approach. The authors argued that the more arrogantly a brand behaves, the more it sells when it comes to luxury. Good luck with that! This may have worked years ago, when the luxury market was less transparent, competition much less, and when consumers had – frankly – lower expectations of brands, because most had a similar go-to-market approach.

In 2021 we are in much different times. And many brands are struggling to keep up with the change. Consumers are what I call super-empowered. They do their homework before they come into the store. And if a brand does not represent their values, they move on to brands that do. In other words, brands need to show their love. They need to take positions. Just looking the other way does not work anymore when consumers expect activism and clarity of values.

Cédric Charbit, chief executive of Balenciaga. Photo credit: Financial Times Live
Cédric Charbit, chief executive of Balenciaga. Photo credit: Financial Times Live
Especially for brands listed on the stock market, taking a public position on potentially controversial topics has always been a struggle. The risk of alienating investors seemed too high. However today, not having a position means to alienate customers. One of the first luxury CEOs who was outspoken about the need to be opinionated was Cédric Charbit of Balenciaga. At The New York Times Luxury Conference in Hong Kong at the end of 2017, I remember a discussion where he stated that brands who are neutral have no future.
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