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How Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong’s eateries are honouring their legacies in the 21st century

A stalwart of Central’s well-heeled social scene, the Mandarin Oriental has touched up its famous eateries, striking a delicate balance between preservation and innovation

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A veteran bartender at The Chinnery. Photo: Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong

Composed simply of sour cream, cream cheese and almond powder, the recipe for the buttery-soft 1963 Mandarin Cheesecake has remained unchanged since the founding of the Mandarin Oriental 61 years ago. But not all recipes stay the same, especially in a city as fast-changing as Hong Kong.

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“The hotel is a part of the social fabric of the city,” says general manager Michael Groll. “It’s like a living room for the local community here, and that comes with a bit of responsibility to take care of these spaces that have been here for so many decades and generations. We wanted to refresh the spaces in a way that people feel that they can still connect with, but at the same time feel that it is a part of the future.”

Visitors to the hotel today will find the Mandarin Oriental looking more chipper than ever, thanks to an overhaul starting with several of its most iconic and long-standing restaurants: The Chinnery, Café Causette and Clipper Lounge. As Candice Chan, founder of design studio J Candice Interior Architects, quickly found out, it was a delicate balancing act figuring out which elements to keep and which to change, especially when it came to much-loved venues that so many Hongkongers had grown up with – including Chan herself.

“When I was a child, my mother would bring me here once in a while for high tea, and now that I’m bringing my own kids, it’s become like a family tradition”, she says.

But what began as a quick project to refresh the restaurant interiors inevitably came with complications, sometimes compounded by lightning-fast deadlines as tight as two weeks.

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“Facelift projects are always quite challenging, because you have to find the right balance, especially with such a long history at the Mandarin,” says Chan.

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