The Corkscrew | Wines from Thailand and India, where vineyards thrive against tradition, are totally tropical tipples
Asian winemakers have learned to adapt, and their pioneering spirits have paid off
Unfettered by the traditional rules of wine, Asian vineyards are bound only by the whims of weather, their winemaker’s ambition and the limits of the location. Vines in the region typically do not go through a dormant stage as they would in temperate climates; in a tropical climate, they grow vigorously year round.
Asian winemakers have adapted to this with a green harvest (two seasons, one crop), early grapes being picked green, before they are ripe, which tricks the vines into putting out new shoots and buds that will become the real harvest in the winter months of February and March.
Thailand
The best region for grapes in Thailand is a northerly 150km-plus jaunt from the bright lights of Bangkok, in Asoke Valley, Khao Yai.
White wine grapes: chenin blanc, colombard, chardonnay and a bit of viognier. And one that grows in a unique environment – malaga blanc (a relative of semillon) – in floating vineyards on the Chao Phraya delta just outside Bangkok. The berries vary in size, have very thick skins and do well in a wet climate (they float!).
Red wine grapes: syrah/shiraz (both spellings are used), cabernet sauvignon (often blended with syrah/shiraz), some warm-climate grapes such as tempranillo and sangiovese. There’s even a curiosity grape called black queen, which originated in Japan and is a hybrid derived from bailey and a descendant of black alicante, called golden queen. The black queen fruit is inky dark with tart currants and a sour candy cane nose that is surprisingly fresh.
GranMonte vineyard is one of the best in Thailand and can compete with many New World wineries. Sustainable and environmentally friendly with a serene setting, it is well worth a visit. The wines are lovely – not heavy, surprisingly not too high in alcohol and very quaffable. Sakuna Syrah Rosé is refreshing, with a savoury crisp-red-apple, slightly almondy palate. The best GranMonte wine, however, is Orient Syrah, with grapes from its three oldest blocks of vines, which were planted around 1998. It’s a concentrated, intense sip full of ripe, dark berries, juicy black plum, hints of tobacco leaf, mocha and dried dates with surprisingly mellow tannins.
