What kimonos revealed about the women that wore them, including whether they were married
- Meaning “thing to wear”, the kimono slipped out of fashion in Japan when Western styles of dress slowly became the norm
- An exhibition at Altfield Gallery explores how each kimono tells a story, some specific to particular occasions, seasons and festivals
Textiles play a vital role in the expression of cultural identity, the warp and weft of a fabric speaking volumes about social status.
Nowhere is this better reflected than in the Japanese kimono, the straight-seamed garment worn by men and women for special occasions from weddings to the first visit to a shrine. Meaning “thing to wear”, the kimono slipped out of fashion in Japan when Western styles of dress slowly became the norm, although they are still worn by women today and have been refashioned by luxury brands from Gucci to Alexander McQueen.
This month the Altfield Gallery in Central is hosting an exhibition of vintage kimonos (1950-1990) sourced from the area around Kyoto, the city that served as Japan’s capital from 794 until 1868 and is considered the home of the kimono.
Altfield co-founder Amanda Clark says the kimono’s amazing colours and motifs are works of art and the perfect way to welcome spring. And there’s more to each piece than meets the eye.
“All the kimonos in this exhibition focus on the furisode, a long-sleeved kimono that was mainly worn by young, unmarried girls,” says Clark, adding that each piece tells a story, some specific to particular occasions, seasons and festivals.
“The different textures of the silks and the techniques used to make them – silk-screen printing, tie-dying, embroidery and hand-painting – mean that each piece is unique and the fabric is used as a canvas to express a girl’s taste, loves and aspirations,” she says. “The colours and patterns are glorious and they were the ultimate fashion accessory to attract attention to a beautiful young woman.”
Highlights include an orange and cream silk satin furisode with hand-applied gold sakura blossoms offset with resist-dyed orange clouds and decorated with flowers and butterflies, some embroidered and outlined in gold thread. “It’s vivid and full of personality, a stunning pattern that is wonderfully contemporary,” says Clark.
