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Joanne Yau

Lindsay Feng

With post-pandemic travel to mainland China growing, many Hong Kong residents are on the lookout for weekend getaway options.
Zhongshan, renamed from Xiangshan in 1925 to honour the “Father of Modern China” Sun Yat-sen (who is better known in China as Sun Zhongshan), has many 19th century buildings, parks and memorials. In recent years, the city has become a popular destination for sightseeing, dining and shopping.
The new Shenzhen-Zhongshan Link, made up of two bridges over and a tunnel under the Pearl River, makes travel between the two cities faster and more convenient, and is likely to make the city a travel hotspot in the Greater Bay Area.
So how easy is it to get to Zhongshan and is there much to do once you are there? We went on a day trip from Hong Kong to find out.

Morning
One way to get to Zhongshan is by coach. At 9am, we departed from the Wan Chai branch of the China Travel Service travel agency for the Shenzhen Bay Immigration Control Point. We bought two single tickets at the counter for HK$60 (US$7.70) each; coaches leave every 20-35 minutes.

The agency also offers a direct bus service between Hong Kong and Zhongshan with a transfer in Shenzhen, but as we had arranged private car transport from Shenzhen to Zhongshan, we skipped this.
It took us about an hour to reach the border control point at Shenzhen, where we passed swiftly through immigration.
While traffic congestion was widely reported when the bridge-tunnel link first opened, there were not as many vehicles on the road when we were travelling. Still, the journey into the city centre took us more than 75 minutes and not the 30 minutes claimed.
On the plus side, the new link’s bridges, which took around seven years to build, offer stunning panoramic views of the two cities’ skylines.

Our first stop was the Zhongshan City Museum in the heart of the city’s Shiqi District. Established in 1984, it has three floors spanning an area of 2,000 square metres (21,500 square feet) and artfully blends Eastern and Western construction styles.
Upon entering, we were greeted by an impressive mural depicting Zhongshan’s picturesque mountain and sea landscapes.
The museum is free to visit, but we arranged a private tour. The guide walked us through each gallery, narrating the history and transformation of Zhongshan.
The exhibits are diverse, including Chinese ceramics, ones that cover the influx of Chinese scholars to the United States in the late 19th century and show the part the city played in the revolution that led to the establishment of the Republic of China as well as more mundane things, such as an exploration of the use of oyster shells as a construction material in the past.

All the galleries are thoughtfully designed and offer a clear route to view the exhibits, which are beautifully presented. While we did not have the time to explore them, our guide explained that its sub-museums, including the Zhongshan Art Museum and the Zhongshan Museum of Commercial Culture, are also worth a visit.
After we were done, we had lunch. One of the regional delicacies is roast pigeon, or squab. There is a local saying that “one pigeon is more nutritious than nine chickens”.
We decided on Ge Xiang Ju, a speciality restaurant that serves roasted pigeon in various ways and was recommended by the museum guide.
We first tried the classic deep-fried pigeon and enjoyed the meat’s crispy skin and satisfying texture. The soy sauce roasted pigeon was solid, but my favourite was the hong shao version – prepared using a common braising method that translates to “red cooking” in Chinese – because of its succulent and juicy skin.

The restaurant also serves hotpot, with highlights being the refreshing chicken coconut soup base and chewy handmade beef balls. We enjoyed the busy yet intimate dining atmosphere – you might share a large table with strangers but it feels like you are part of the local community.
A meal cost the three of us about 200 yuan (US$27).
Zhongshan City Museum, No. 197 Sunwen Middle Road, Shiqi District, Zhongshan 528404
Ge Xiang Ju, 17 Fukang Road, No. 19 (Qile Garden South), Zhongshan
Joanne Yau

Afternoon
Despite the day’s rain, we visited Sun Wen Memorial Park, one of the largest parks in Zhongshan. At its peak, reached via a few dozen steps, is a statue of Sun Yat-sen and a striking 360-degree view of the city.
This is the perfect place for photographers and visitors who want to capture Zhongshan’s diverse landscape, from the surrounding mountains to its sleek urban buildings.
After exploring the park, we set off in search of local delicacies to bring back home. We discovered Huizanlao Bakery, a quaint store selling almond cakes, a signature treat of Zhongshan.

These cakes are made with mung bean powder and filled with slices of fatty meat. Their strong almond flavour and crisp texture make them the ideal light snack.
Our final destination for the day was the Museum of Dr Sun Yat-sen, a popular attraction in the village of Cuiheng away from the city’s hustle and bustle. Despite it being a Thursday afternoon, the museum – formerly the childhood home of the revolutionary – teemed with tourists.
Sun Yat-sen was born in Cuiheng in 1866, and his early life and legacy have been meticulously documented here, offering an intimate look at one of modern China’s most influential figures.
The museum, which is free to enter, is divided into two main sections: one features traditional folk structures from Sun’s youth, and the other is a modern building showcasing his community organising efforts.


The exhibitions in the latter comprise a collection of photographs, newspapers, literature and statues from Sun’s activist years. The displays highlight key moments in his life and the broader historical context of the time in which he lived.
The museum is a must-visit for those seeking to understand Zhongshan’s place in the history of modern China.
Several old houses in the village have been restored to the state they would have been in during the late Qing dynasty. Decorated to reflect the lifestyles of wealthy families, middle-class farmers and merchants, they offer visitors a comprehensive picture of life in Sun’s hometown.
As our day in Zhongshan drew to a close, we made our way to the ferry terminal at Zhongshan port. For 200 yuan, we enjoyed a peaceful 90-minute journey back to Hong Kong, arriving at Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon by 7.30pm – just in time for dinner.

To sum up, Zhongshan, with its historical significance, cultural riches, landscapes and food, offers a refreshing escape from the urban intensity of Hong Kong.
Whether you are a history buff, a foodie or simply looking for a peaceful retreat, the city is well worth a visit.
Sun Wen Memorial Park, F9XR+F4M, Xingzhong Avenue, Zhongshan 528405
Huizanlao Bakery, No. 14 Zhi No. 1 Tingzixia Avenue, Zhongshan
The Museum of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, 93 Cuiheng Boulevard, Zhongshan 528454
Lindsay Feng


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Asia travel

A day trip to Zhongshan from Hong Kong, from how to get there to what to do in the city

The Shenzhen-Zhongshan Link bathed in morning light. Photo: Xinhua

The mural that greets visitors as they enter Zhongshan City Museum. Hong Kong residents looking for a day-trip destination in mainland China should consider Zhongshan, now that a new road link from Shenzhen, including bridges across the Pearl River, have made it more accessible. Photo: Joanne Yau

The Shenzhen-Zhongshan Link is expected to shorten journey times between the two cities. Photo: Joanne Yau

The entrance to the Zhongshan City Museum. Photo: Joanne Yau

The Zhongshan City Museum offers a lot of interactive exhibits and videos. Photo: Joanne Yau

The outside of Ge Xiang Ju, a restaurant specialising in roast pigeon. Photo: Joanne Yau

Hong shao roast pigeon is a classic Zhongshan delicacy. Photo: Joanne Yau

A statue of Sun Yat-sen at the peak of Sun Wen Memorial Park. Photo: Lindsay Feng

Inside Huizanlao Bakery in Zhongshan’s city centre. Photo: Lindsay Feng

The inside of Sun Yat-sen’s childhood home. Photo: Lindsay Feng

A restored traditional house in Cuiheng village. Photo: Lindsay Feng

Inside the ferry from Zhongshan to Hong Kong. Photo: Lindsay Feng

Yangshuo boutique hotel to spearhead new Chinese heritage hospitality brand Aurua

The Yangshuo Sugar House pool is surrounded by concrete pillars left behind from the site’s factory days. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

Yangshuo Sugar House is envisaged as the first boutique hotel under a new Chinese hospitality brand, Aurua, that seeks to celebrate and restore buildings and locations tied to China’s past. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

The mountains surrounding the Yangshuo Sugar House help give the resort the feel of a secret hideaway. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

The Li River seen from the Yangshuo Sugar House. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

Danny T.T. Chan (centre) by the Sugar House pool. Artist Hu Xingyi, seated on the right, is in the process of capturing the Li River in a watercolour. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

The developers built new concrete structures for the hotel’s accommodation alongside the old factory buildings; seen here is a wing housing the Sugar House’s Garden Townhouse suite. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

Old factory machinery has been left in place for the sake of ambience at Yangshuo Sugar House. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

A projection of the new brand name on the hillside behind the resort. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

An outdoor stairway. The restoration of the sugar mill was carried out with respect for its origins. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

Old factory buildings as seen from the hotel entrance. On the right is the reception, with a restaurant in the building behind it. On the left are buildings that house the resort’s boutique (front) and function rooms (back). Photo: Kristian Odebjer

The reception of the Yangshuo Sugar House features a lowered seating area. Photo: Kristian Odebjer

How Hong Kong permanent residents can apply for new mainland China multi-entry visas

Travellers cross the border to Shenzhen via the Lo Wu Checkpoint. Photo: Yik Yeung-man

Applicants can submit in-person applications at service centres in Central, Kowloon Bay, Kwai Chung, Sha Tin, Tuen Mun and Mong Kok. Photo: Jelly Tse

A sample photo of the mainland travel permit for Hong Kong and Macau residents. Photo: Handout

Shenzhen travel guide: how to get a visa on arrival, which apps to download and cashless payment in the Chinese city

To get to places in Shenzhen like Dongmen Pedestrian Street (above), Hong Kong residents without the right visa can apply for one on arrival. That’s not all you need to know - we break down the essentials for your trip from Hong Kong. Photo: Shutterstock

WeChat is useful for electronic payments and for its mini-programs – apps within the app. Photo: Shutterstock

The simplest option within Hong Kong to reach Shenzhen is to take the MTR East Rail Line to Lo Wu or Lok Ma Chau stations. Photo: Erika Na

Shenzhen taxis can be ordered via Didi Chuxing, the Chinese equivalent of Uber. Photo: Shutterstock

Alipay accepts foreign-issued credit cards and can be used to make e-payments in Shenzhen. Photo: Shutterstock

Baidu Maps is more accurate than Google Maps in Shenzhen. Photo: Shutterstock

Hong Kong vs Shenzhen: a day of food, drinks, sightseeing and leisure compared – how much cheaper can the mainland Chinese city be?

A server slices a course of Beijing fruitwood roast duck at Blossom Palaces in Shenzhen, China, where one of our writers eats on their day of food, drink and leisure in the city to compare it with Hong Kong. Photo: Young Wang

Dim sum dishes at Laurel Restaurant (OCT branch) in Shenzhen. Photo: Young Wang

A view of Shenzhen’s Civic Centre (left, wide curved building) and surrounding areas from Free Sky. Photo: Young Wang 

A view across Shenzhen and farmland in Hong Kong from Free Sky. Photo: Young Wang

The Coco Park shopping complex in Shenzhen is across the road from the PAFC. Photo: Young Wang

Chinese New Year merchandise for sale at Sam’s Club in Futian. Photo: Young Wang

Sashimi at Benyuan Shiji Robatayaki, in Shenzhen’s EP Mall. Photo: Young Wang

Smoked Spanish pork neck with miso sauce at Benyuan Shiji Robatayaki. Photo: Young Wang

Dim sum dishes at Maxim’s Palace in City Hall, Central. Photo: Erika Na

Barbecue pork pineapple buns at Maxim’s Palace in City Hall. Photo: Erika Na

A street market stall on Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan. Photo: Erika Na

A temple in Sheung Wan. Photo: Erika Na

Our gelatos at Messina in Central. Photo: Erika Na

Artwork and teapots for sale in a gallery at Tai Kwun. Photo: Erika Na

‘A piece of China mislaid’: in Mengzi, Yunnan, charming traces of its time as treaty port

The century-old offices of a Greek company, incongruously Mediterranean beside a lake in Mengzi, Yunnan. Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

Mengzi in Yunnan, southwest China, once a sleepy inland treaty port, has grown rapidly in recent years, having been made a prefectural capital. Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

The English writer Stella Benson, acquaintance of Virginia Woolf, sometime resident of Mengzi and South China Morning Post correspondent. Photo: Getty Images

Backwater Mengzi, in the south of Yunnan not far from the Vietnamese border, is known for little except as the origin of across-the-bridge noodles. Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

The century-old offices of a Greek company beside a lake in Mengzi now house a history of the backwater market town. Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

The French opened a consulate in Mengzi when, in 1897, it became a treaty port where foreigners were allowed to live and do business. Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

At a museum in Mengzi, Yunnan, displays chart the 1937 arrival there of students from Peking University and other institutions who were fleeing Japanese military advances into China. Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

Trains no longer run on the century-old French-built metre-gauge railway to Bisezhai, or the branch line from there to Mengzi, but the original buildings, signage, and water towers still remain. Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

Little remains in Mengzi of the first Chinese-built and privately owned railway, a narrow gauge line that once brought tin from mines up to the French-built line between Haiphong and Kunming Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

At Bisezhai, a century-old American-built steam engine sits on a siding of 600mm track. It once ran on the Gebishi Line to Mengzi and beyond. Photo: Peter Neville-Hadley

Lifestyle

Travel & Leisure

With a new road link, Zhongshan in Guangdong is a popular destination for sightseeing, food and shopping – we went for a day to check it out


Hong Kong residents looking to make a quick day trip into mainland China should put Zhongshan on their list now a new bridge is open – we break down how to get there, what to eat and places to explore.
