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From Uniqlo to Nike, global clothing brands struggle in China against ‘white labels’ amid consumption downgrade

  • Chinese shoppers are prioritising functionality over fashion appeal, according to Mintel. Some 59 per cent of respondents focused more on the product than the brand, the market research firm says.

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People visiting the Uniqlo stand during the 5th China International Import Expo in Shanghai in November 2022. Photo by AFP
Yuke Xiein Beijing

Middle-market apparel brands, once embraced by Chinese consumers for their affordability, are facing softening demand in the world’s second-largest economy as buyers opt for better value and consumption downgrade persists.

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Fast Retailing, the company behind Japanese brand Uniqlo, this month said revenue from its mainland China market had “struggled” in the nine months through May 31 from a year earlier, citing waning demand and a mismatch in its product offerings and local preferences.

The shift has also hurt domestic brands. Sales at Li Ning, China’s biggest sportswear brand, grew by 2 per cent in the first quarter versus 6 per cent in the same period last year. At Xtep, a mass-market sports brand, sales rose by 10 per cent last quarter, about half the pace of the same period last year.

“The Chinese sportswear market is experiencing a polarisation of consumer spending,” Ivan Su, a senior equity analyst at Morningstar, said in a report last month. “Brands that are positioned in the middle of the market are facing more challenges as consumer preferences increasingly lean toward either value-driven or luxury products.”

People walk past a Li Ning outlet in Beijing in October 2019. Photo: AFP
People walk past a Li Ning outlet in Beijing in October 2019. Photo: AFP

Much of the shift is driven by concerns about the state of China’s economy. Years of stop-start economic activity, rising unemployment and a multi-year housing market slump have forced consumers to batten down the hatches. The economy grew 4.7 per cent last quarter, easing from a 5.3 per cent pace in the preceding three months, official data showed.

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