Insiders’ George Town: Penang’s capital beyond its atmospheric hotels and street art
Think of George Town and its heritage hotels and vivid graffiti art spring to mind, but listen to the locals and you’ll discover the Habitat rainforest, bustling Jelutong and much more
Since George Town achieved Unesco World Heritage recognition in 2008, the capital of Malaysia’s state of Penang has blossomed into one of Southeast Asia’s most popular weekend getaways, a seductive combination of culture and food, with Chinese and colonial mansions alike transformed into designer hotels, cutting-edge restaurants, hidden boutiques and speakeasy bars.
With so much to enjoy, it helps to have a little insider knowledge to uncover the latest and best spots, so we talked to three locals to get the low-down.
Kenny Loh was born here, into a genuine Baba Nyonya (of Malay-Chinese descent) family, and is a craftsman creating Peranakan embroidered kebaya dresses and beaded shoes. Malaysian Joe Sidek found fame directing the internationally acclaimed George Town Festival, while Alison Fraser moved from London in 1997, made her home in Malaysia and became the first female general manager of the Eastern & Oriental Hotel (universally known as the E&O) in 2019.
Beyond the Insta hotspots
While heritage architecture and the public artwork of Lithuanian street artist Ernest Zacharevic are George Town’s biggest crowd-pullers, there’s much more to this multicultural city of almost 800,000 people. When pushed for examples, Sidek notes, “Though green spaces are rare we are fortunate that the charming Armenian Square has recently been transformed from a sleazy ‘thieves market’ into a green park for families and a venue for concerts and dance.”
For Fraser, “My favourite spot for a quiet walk is along the recently renovated Esplanade, passing grand colonial buildings, churches and palaces, green parks, Fort Cornwallis – all with wonderful views over the waterfront, as if time has stood still.”
And then there is Habitat, a jungle-canopy walk just 20 minutes from town. “Download the Grab app and book a cab to the Penang Hill funicular station,” says Loh. “Ride up to the top and take a guided tour of Habitat, through ancient rainforest where you see monkeys, wild birds, colourful orchids and have spectacular views across the island.”
Eating extravaganza
