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Being Chinese | What I know as a Chinese-looking person travelling the world

  • It is remarkable how assumptions and expectations of a Chinese-looking person have evolved, as China’s fortunes changed over decades

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A Chinese tourist in traditional Thai dress poses for a photo at Wat Arun or the Temple of Dawn in Bangkok in 2023. Photo: AP
I still remember what I was wearing that day in the 1990s, when I flounced up the escalator leading to a high-end mall in Hong Kong, a young woman excited to be shopping alone during a family trip to the Chinese-speaking world’s capital of cool then.
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Looking back, I wonder if the black floral dress I was wearing would have seemed more frumpy than timelessly romantic to a fashion-conscious Hongkonger. Was my insufficiently brushed hair to blame? Perhaps my excitement somehow looked like the anxiety of a fish out of water.

I had barely stood still in a boutique when a sales assistant sized me up, decided I couldn’t be a fellow Hongkonger, and asked if she could help me, in Mandarin. While she wasn’t exactly rude, there was enough hauteur in her voice to make me feel I had failed. In that moment, it didn’t seem to matter that I had spent a good part of my teen years studying second-hand videotapes of Stephen Chow Sing-chi comedies like they were Cantonese textbooks, and composing letters in colloquial Cantonese to my pen pal in Hong Kong, so I could one day land in the home city of Cantopop culture and fit right in.

I had been found inadequate before I could open my mouth. After I replied in Cantonese that I was just browsing, the sales assistant let me be and I left soon. Still, I found myself wishing I had bought something pricey, as if it could prove I wasn’t whatever she had presumed I was. Which was what? Someone from a sleepy backwater of mainland China?

Born to a Chinese-speaking family in Singapore, I had always been comfortable in my skin as a child of the Chinese diaspora. We lived on a high floor in a public housing block, and the corridor outside our flat every so often rang with neighbourly chit-chat in Mandarin, Hakka and Cantonese. At my secondary school, English and Chinese were taught as first languages.

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It also fell to me, the firstborn, to send annual greeting cards to an uncle in a village in Dabu county in Guangdong province: an address I can rattle off to this day, even though our village relatives have long since been reachable by video chat.

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