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Xinjiang cotton controversy has been a boon for Chinese premier sneaker scalpers

  • Prices for Li-Ning’s Way of Wade 4 “All-Star Colourway” rose from a few hundred dollars to over US$7,300 on a popular shoe resale app
  • Chinese state media published op-eds saying the price hike is “hurting people’s patriotism”

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Limited edition sneakers from Chinese brands Li-Na and Anta are at the centre of price speculation. Illustration: Tom Leung

Chinese sports brands Li-Ning and Anta are experiencing a surge in popularity and price on the secondary market as international footwear brands find themselves facing boycotts from many Chinese consumers over statements expressing concern about allegations of forced labour in Xinjiang. 

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Since late March, prices for some of Li-Ning’s and Anta’s more popular sneakers jumped so fast it resulted in official op-eds from state media denouncing the secondary market. 

Chinese scalpers are shifting their focus to limited edition domestic sneakers to take advantage of the Xinjiang cotton backlash. State media says they are inflating prices and “hurting patriotism”. Illustration: Tom Leung
Chinese scalpers are shifting their focus to limited edition domestic sneakers to take advantage of the Xinjiang cotton backlash. State media says they are inflating prices and “hurting patriotism”. Illustration: Tom Leung

The sneaker that attracted the most attention is the Way of Wade 4 “All-Star Colourway” from Li-Ning. Li-Ning made only 100 pairs of the shoe in 2016, which is part of the signature line from retired NBA superstar Dwyane Wade. 

On Poizon, a Chinese app for buying and selling shoes and other apparel, the price of the All-Star Colourway rose more than 30 times from 1,500 yuan (US$230) to 48,000 yuan (US$7,330) in the days after the controversy exploded. 

The price of a collaboration sneaker between Anta and Doraemon, a Japanese manga series and brand, rose from 499 yuan (US$76) to 4,599 yuan (US$702). The Anta/Doraemon shoe was sold over 9,000 times before Poizon pulled it from the app. 

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Global brands face backlash in China for rejecting Xinjiang cotton

Global brands face backlash in China for rejecting Xinjiang cotton

Li-Ning and Anta benefited from widespread calls to boycott international brands such as H&M, Nike and Adidas because they issued statements saying they would not use cotton sourced from Xinjiang. Last December, the US government banned cotton and cotton products from the Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps, one of the region’s largest cotton producers, over concerns that it allegedly used forced labour.

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