Best cha chaan tengs – where to find bustling cafes serving Hong Kong’s much loved Canto-Western cuisine
- Born as a way to provide affordable Western food, cha chaan teng in Hong Kong have become a vital part of the city’s culture
- Cha chaan teng are messy and loud; the waiters are often snappy in demeanour; and don’t you dare take your time with the menu
Wander down any street in Hong Kong and you’ll eventually come across a cha chaan teng.
This culture of dining is a welcome assault to the senses. The interiors are clamorous – plastic stools scrape on tile floors, steaming dishes clang on the tables, hungry people chatter and waiters shout to be heard over the cacophony
There is no official data to suggest how many cha chaan teng are in Hong Kong, but it is safe to assume there are thousands across the city. Many closed down over the decades as urbanisation increases demand for more diverse choices.
In recent years, cha chaan teng have enjoyed something of a comeback as Hong Kong came to appreciate traditional culture and it became an international attraction. The more famous brands survived the tough times modernised their decor and menus to the cater the changing needs of diners and tourists.
But the vintage vibe remains. From French toast to Russian borscht, the menus are astounding in their scope. Baked Portuguese chicken rice, Singaporean noodles and Swiss chicken wings – dishes with no precedent outside the city – fight for their spot on the dining table.
Also known as “soy sauce Western food”, many cha chaan teng dishes seem to have a disconnect between the place they’re named after and the food itself.
