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Ma Wan: an island losing heritage to modernity

Urban development has left fishing villages crumbling but failed to bring locals trappings of modernity and left them fearing for future

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Ma Wan's dwindling fish farms today are overlooked by Park Island, a private housing estate. Photo: Thomas Yau

Ma Wan is a bit of an anomaly. Measuring a little less than a square kilometre, the island is a hodge-podge of structures chronicling different eras.

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There is a large, modern housing estate, a theme park, a two-century-old village and a cluster of floating fishermen's huts, all co-existing under the looming shadow of one of the longest suspension bridges in the world - the Tsing Ma Bridge.

Hong Kong International Airport is visible from the island and busy cargo ships can be seen sailing in and out of the region's biggest cargo container terminals in Kwai Tsing.

Yet despite being surrounded by transport networks, Ma Wan itself is becoming increasingly isolated. The ferry service to and from Tsuen Wan West was terminated this month, leaving residents with a ferry service to Central and buses to Tsing Yi, Kwai Fong, Tsuen Wan MTR and the airport.

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Arriving at the ferry pier, a visitor walks straight into the tile-paved plaza of the private housing estate Park Island, which is home to more than 5,000 families and takes up the biggest chunk of the island. No private cars are allowed and trees line wide walkways as children ride bicycles.

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