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Yifei Chen

Jean Lin


As darkness shrouded the Annapurna mountain in Nepal on an evening in March, Chinese mountaineer Zhang Liang remembers his voice echoing: “Keep moving! Keep moving!”
There was no response. His teammates were returning from a victorious climb to the summit of the world’s 10th highest mountain in March – just a month before a deadly earthquake shook Nepal last week, killing thousands, among them 18 climbers and guides at Everest base camps.
At the time, Zhang and his team's trail back to base camp was rendered impassable.
They were running out of food, energy and were losing body temperature. When night fell, their Sherpa guides were unable to find a way down, so they had to spend the evening in the open air, more than 7,000 metres above ground.
It was a battle of willpower against hunger, fatigue and severe frostbite.
Zhang Liang’s experience gives a glimpse of the dangers endured by climbers and guides on the Himalayas, as Nepal and affected countries struggle with the aftermath of the April 25 quake.
That day in March, Zhang’s teammates were all on the edge of breaking down. Some were sitting up on the ice and a few were lying, passed out, on the ground.
“I was still conscious. I had to be … I must bring everyone through [the night],” Zhang told the South China Morning Post. “Hope was on the way once dawn came and we were able to see the path.”
The team had also encountered an avalanche on their way up the Annapurna. However, that time, Zhang felt undaunted. He pulled out his camera and pressed record.
“Why not record it? I wouldn’t be able to get away anyway, if it [were truly dangerous],” he said.
Only 11 of his 13 teammates (seven mountaineers and six Sherpas), survived the trek to base camp. A Finnish climber and a Sherpa guide fell to their death.
Zhang recalled seeing Samuli, the Finnish climber, stand up abruptly while everyone else was taking a rest. He untied his safety rope, and walked past Zhang to a spot six to seven metres away.
“What are you doing?” Zhang yelled. Samuli did not respond.
“He just squatted there,” Zhang said. Then, within seconds, Samuli fell.
WATCH: Zhang Liang and his teammates battle fatigue and the elements on Annapurna 

A bank professional and one of China’s top mountaineers, it was Zhang’s second Annapurna climb.
Unlike tens of thousands of other tourists who travel the world for luxury and shopping, Zhang travels for adventure.
Zhang Liang is among the few from his country who has reached the “three polar points”: Everest, as well as the North and South Pole.
The Annapurna is the 11th mountain Zhang has climbed that stands higher than 8,000 metres. He is now only three mountains away from the ultimate goal of many mountaineers: conquering all 14 mountains that stand above that height.
“[To be a mountaineer,] you need to be seasoned, [and] fully prepared both mentally and physically. You need to think it through before getting started,” Zhang said.
The risks are great. Statistics from the Chinese Mountaineering Association show that 48 Chinese died while mountain climbing in 2013, the highest death toll since the association started to release data in 2007.
Zhang’s first brush with death was when he lost three teammates while climbing Nepal’s Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest mountain on earth.
His teammate, Li Bin, was exhausted and could not move an inch. Li urged the others to leave him.
With everyone having only the energy to take care of themselves, Zhang made a tough call. They moved on without Li. The teammate did not make it.
Zhang said he was very conservative in assessing the risk of every climb. Last year, he reached 7,750 metres on his first attempt to climb the Annapurna, but he convinced his team to turn back because of bad weather.
Having survived the avalanche in Annapurna has given Zhang a new perspective on life.
“I am able to face danger and hardship [in the process]. I have become more mature [after the climb in March],” he said.
Read full version on SCMP Chinese


‘I can face danger’: Chinese mountaineer films, survives Nepal avalanche a month before quake

Tourists enjoy the view of Mount Annapurna of the Himalayan Range at Sarangkot in Pokhara, Nepal. Photo: Xinhua

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Zhang Liang’s experience gives a glimpse of the dangers endured by climbers and guides on the Himalayas, as Nepal and affected countries struggle with the aftermath of the April 25 quake.


Video | ‘I can face danger’: Chinese mountaineer films, survives Nepal avalanche a month before quake

Zhang Liang’s experience gives a glimpse of the dangers endured by climbers and guides on the Himalayas, as Nepal and affected countries struggle with the aftermath of the April 25 quake.