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‘China-chic’ trend builds on young people’s patriotism, cultural confidence

  • ‘Hanfu’ fashion goes from an obscure subculture to the mass-produced mainstream
  • Chinese market for traditional-style outfits grew 6.4 per cent last year to US$1.4 billion

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Illustration: Perry Tse

Wang Shuxin is one of many young Chinese seeking to revive traditional aesthetics and reflect their patriotism through their shopping choices.

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The 20-year-old will mix a Tang-period-style embroidered top with jeans when attending university lectures, don a Ming-period-style dress when hanging out with friends on weekends, and regularly shares her shopping tips and purchases of Hanfu – outfits inspired by the ensembles worn by ancient Han Chinese – on social media.

“I love traditional Chinese culture and want to do my part in promoting it,” she said.

Like many Chinese born between the mid-1990s and 2010, Wang is digitally savvy, has known only a rising China – making her much more culturally confident than previous generations – and is willing to spend money on domestic brands. Members of what is known as Generation Z, they are among the highest spenders in the country and are set to become a key driver of domestic consumption.

It was such young, nationalistic Chinese who drove the backlash against Western brands like H&M and Nike last year after the companies denounced the alleged use of forced labour in cotton production in the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region. They were again at the forefront in July as French luxury brand Dior was accused of cultural appropriation for allegedly copying the design of a traditional Chinese “horse-face skirt”.

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Young people in China are reviving old clothing, and maybe nationalism too

Young people in China are reviving old clothing, and maybe nationalism too

In the eyes of young Chinese shoppers, the “made in China” label is no longer synonymous with poor quality. It has, instead, created a consumer trend called Guochao, or “China-chic”, that has spawned home-grown brands that integrate Chinese cultural elements and traditional motifs into their products’ marketing campaigns.

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