In Partnership WithDepartment of Tourism, Culture, Radio, Television and Sports of Hainan Province
Insiders’ guide to delights of Haikou’s historic trendy area on China’s island province of Hainan
In Partnership WithDepartment of Tourism, Culture, Radio, Television and Sports of Hainan Province
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  • City’s restored Qilou Old Street, full of shophouses with East-meets-West architecture, is home to cafes, restaurants and shops popular with locals and visitors
  • Square Out Space, a Mediterranean-style cafe bar and artspace, Taichi Brewery and one-stop food destination, Qilou Snack Street, among favourite haunts

Matt Waters, a 29-year-old teacher, musician and music producer from the United States, orders a coconut from a street hawker in Mandarin: “Wo yao yi ge ye zi, xie xie.”

While he watches as the top of the coconut’s shell is cut off he adds: “Hainan is quite famous for its coconuts … I'm quite looking forward to this one.”

Hainan is unique in the fact that people [from] all across the world [are] coming here and mixing with the local Chinese culture
Matt Waters, American teacher, musician and Haikou resident
Matt Waters, a teacher, musician and music producer from the United States, who moved to Haikou in Hainan more than two years ago.
Matt Waters, a teacher, musician and music producer from the United States, who moved to Haikou in Hainan more than two years ago.

He then sips the fresh coconut juice as he continues to show South China Morning Post around the historic area known as Qilou Old Street, one of his favourite places in Haikou, the port city and capital of China’s island province of Hainan.

Waters moved to Haikou more than two years ago to help launch a music programme as trombone professor at the city’s Nanhai Conservatory of Music, as well as set up a music production event company, Hainan Music Productions.