How Hong Kong fine dining finally got green: from ‘conscious dining’ restaurant Moxie to Mora’s ‘bean-to-table’ concept, the city’s top chefs are embracing sustainability

Oct 16 , 2022

Steamed yeast custard and beef tendon with heirloom corn sourced directly from a farm in Taiwan. Photo: Roganic

F&B is a notoriously wasteful industry, but the city’s chefs are now putting the environment at the heart of their menus – just look at Michael Smith’s ‘conscious dining’ venture Moxie

Celeb chef Richard Ekkebus created a seven-point ESG manifesto, Roganic Hong Kong pledged a multi-point sustainability strategy and Mora touts a ‘bean-to-table’ concept

Although Hong Kong may not be in the vanguard of sustainable practices, some of its most notable chefs are taking action and leading the way locally in the hope of inspiring others. Because they realise more than anyone how fragile our food sources are – and how important it is that they continue to survive and thrive.

As well as changing the ways things are in their kitchens and supply chains, many of the most committed chefs now realise the role they can play in educating diners, whether through the food choices they make, what they do and do not serve, and where and how ingredients are sourced. Sustainability efforts are being driven by this trickle-down effect.

Yellow tail, tomatillo, sorrel, jalapeño, colatura di alici and monocultivar Frantoio extra virgin olive oil. Photo: Amber

Take Richard Ekkebus, culinary director at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental. Well known locally and internationally for his commitment to sustainability, Ekkebus created a seven-point manifesto for the hotel’s French restaurant Amber, focused on minimising harm to the planet, and environmental, social and governance (ESG) performance.

A key element of this is sourcing.

“We prioritise sourcing from predominantly organic local and regional farms to reduce the carbon footprint. This fully traceable, sustainable, regenerative, organic, local or regional sourcing of ingredients is one of the key initiatives that sets us apart from most restaurants in Hong Kong,” says Ekkebus.

Local sourcing also provides investment in the local economy, helps establish thriving food networks and protects Hong Kong food heritage, he adds.

Ashley Salmon, head chef at Roganic, visiting a local farm supplier. Photo: Handout

Roganic Hong Kong in Causeway Bay also has a clearly defined multi-point sustainability strategy. “We always try and look at new avenues to make us more sustainable,” says head chef Ashley Salmon. “With a focus on local and sustainable ingredients, we present a city-centric take on the farm-to-table dining experience.” Salmon pledges a complete commitment to provenance and traceability of ingredients used.

Focusing on regenerative sourcing from local and regional farms is Michael Smith of Moxie, a young “conscious dining” restaurant in Central’s Alexandra House. Going beyond simply maintaining the status quo, regenerative farms take the sustainable focus further by actively implementing practices to restore the environment.