Hermès marks its SIHH debut with a dash of panache

Mar 16 , 2018

The Arceau Mythiques Phoenix Coloriages, in blue or red, showcases Hermès’ strong artisanal identity.

SIHH 2018

First-timer to the show has chosen ‘Let’s play’ as its theme for 2018, and astounded visitors with its iconic Carré H makeover

The latest brand to join the SIHH bandwagon is luxury powerhouse Hermès, which until last year had been showing at Baselworld. It marked its debut in its own inimitable style, bringing a touch of whimsicality to the mix.

“‘Let’s play’ is our theme for 2018,” says Pierre-Alexis Dumas, artistic director of Hermès. “It’s an invitation to never take your heritage for granted and to use your heritage to reinvent the future.”

The theme is evident in everything from its experiential booth to its watches.

Stealing the spotlight this year was the Carré H, designed by Marc Berthier in 2010, which returned with a few updates. While it retains its iconic curved square case, it is a few millimetres bigger at 38mm and comes in steel with polished and microbead-blasted finishing.

Hermès Carré H(shown with a grey dial) is powered by a manufacture H1912 movement.

“The square is an important shape at Hermès,” Dumas says. “A square has angles, but this [timepiece] doesn’t have angles – it’s all about curves, it’s very sensual and playful.”

The dial features right-angled guilloché work, which captures the light just so, as well as facetted hands and numerals. It comes in two versions, with a black or a grey dial, and with the seconds hand in either yellow or red, adding a subtle playfulness. It is powered by a manufacture mechanical self-winding H1912 movement, with a power reserve of 50 hours, which can be viewed through the transparent sapphire caseback.

“We played with a very graphic face because Marc Berthier is very good at visual communication, and we have a very strong history of typography at Hermès. I wanted that face to be playful and strong, the way the square is strong,” Dumas says. “It’s sporty without being a sports watch.”

Arceau Casaque comes in four colours: red, yellow, green and blue.

Hermès also strengthened its core collection with new offerings that expanded its signature Arceau and Hermès Cape Cod collections.

The Arceau collection, designed in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, celebrates its 40th anniversary this year. It is known for its distinctive round case paired with asymmetrical lugs – a look inspired by horse stirrups.

The Arceau Chrono Titane pairs a chronograph function with an elegant 41mm bead-blasted titanium case. Two straps are available: brown Barenia calfskin and black embossed Barenia calfskin.