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Luxury brands are leading a boom in men’s jewellery

Once the domain of the rock or sports star, men’s jewellery is now all-access
Once the domain of the rock or sports star, men’s jewellery is now all-access

Once the domain of the rock or sports star, men’s jewellery is now all-access

Once the preserve of nobles and royals of both sexes – Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels can recall massive orders of spectacular necklaces and brooches from maharajas out to impress others with signs of their power – the jewellery scene is dominated by women today.
If a man was ever involved, it was likely to be while whipping out his credit card out to pay for a purchase or going down on one knee to propose.

That’s starting to change, with more jewellery brands eager to cater to men’s needs and desires. “Men are wearing more and more jewellery,” says Caroline Gaspard, the founder of Akillis, a French-based jewellery brand which also specialises in unisex jewellery. “The barriers are falling, and younger men are confident in expressing their own look.”

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Simon Spiteri, an accessories buyer for MR PORTER, says: “Whether it’s the street-style heroes during London Men’s Collection or the impeccably dressed ‘male peacocks’ strolling around Pitti Uomo, the small details of men’s style have become increasingly more important to highlight [their] look and [help them] stand out.”

He says there is much interest in the Asia-Pacific, where men are “more daring and fashion-forward,” noting that “Asian men are more willing to try different accessories. [However], as much as the men’s jewellery sector is consistently growing, it is still a low value category compared to watches and cufflinks.”

Despite the tangible excitement, men’s jewellery has a long way to go to match men’s watches in terms of sales and visibility. Wristwatches remain the go-to luxury accessory for men, with a Rolex or a Vacheron Constantin timepiece the equivalent of a De Beers diamond or a Birkin bag for women.

Stephen Webster, founder and designer of his eponymous jewellery label, says: “Over the past 10 [to] 15 years, men have become more comfortable including jewellery as part of their wardrobe. Once the [dress] code of the rock or sports star, jewellery has been through a democratisation, allowing almost everyone access.”

A men’s jewellery piece by Stephen Webster
A men’s jewellery piece by Stephen Webster

Spiteri agrees, saying: “Watches are still the number one choice for almost every single male customer when it comes to accessories. It still holds a significant place in their hearts and many times bracelets and jewellery come in second.”

The barriers are falling, and younger men are more confident in expressing their own look
Caroline Gaspard