Eat like a local in Xian: 5 ways to get your carb fix in the Chinese city of wheat
Dining options range from a ‘Chinese hamburger’ liked by James Bond, to cold noodles perfect for summer, and a honey rice cake on a stick
One thing you soon realise in Xian is how important wheat is to the cuisine, whether it is in the form of bread or noodles. Rice doesn’t grow in the region but throw a handful of wheat over the parched ground and it will germinate.
Most of these dishes are easily found in restaurants in the centre of the central Chinese city, particularly in the Muslim Quarter.
1. Roujiamo
Probably the easiest Chinese dish name for foreigners to remember thanks to a certain James Bond actor, this is also quintessential Xian. The “Chinese hamburger” is one of the world’s oldest sandwiches with a history dating back to the Tang dynasty.
Shredded pork fills the two most common versions, Guanzhong and Tongguan styles. In the Muslim Quarter, the halal version fills the flat bread usually with beef but occasionally lamb.
Try to find a restaurant such as Wangkui that makes the bread the traditional way with a charcoal-fuelled oven. You will really notice the difference. And if in a group, do as the locals do, order a plate of meat and bread separately and make your own.
2. Cold noodles
Liangpi are slightly more adventurous and make a good accompaniment to barbecue or lamb paomo – a popular soup dish into which diners crumble mo bread. Cold noodles usually come with a spicy sesame sauce (majiang) and julienned cucumber. Similar to Japanese style udon, the wheat flour noodles are springy with a chewy texture. Although served all year around they are especially good in Shaanxi’s hot summers.
3. High oven bread