Coco Chanel and Sex in the City made them edgy – now black (and grey) diamonds are going mainstream
Chanel’s Bijoux de Diamants harnessed small black accents back in 1932, while Mr Big famously gave commitment-phobe Carrie Bradshaw a black diamond engagement ring – but now that Louis Vuitton has bought the colossal Sewelô stone, it’s not just rebels and goths turning to darker gems for a touch of noir chic
A look at the spectrum of diamonds featuring in jewellery today reveals two unconventional preferences: black diamonds, which add flair and drama to finished jewellery, and grey diamonds, now being recognised for their subtlety and diversity.
While the black diamond has been touted as the next big thing, it’s still not a prevailing trend, possibly because it appeals to the rebel in us – more the exception than the norm.
When Louis Vuitton revealed that it had acquired the rights to the 1,758-carat Sewelô diamond – the second-largest diamond ever mined – questions began emerging regarding the colour and grade of this colossal gem. While only polishing and cutting will reveal its true colour, the seemingly black exterior is sparking interest once again in black diamonds. The black diamond will forever be associated with coolness and a rejection of norms thanks to its link to the hit television series Sex in the City, and the black diamond engagement ring that the commitment-phobic Carrie Bradshaw eventually said yes to.
While larger sizes are usually chosen for statement jewellery or engagements rings, grouping smaller stones can be extraordinarily effective, too. For example, the black diamond snake ring in 18-carat white gold and black rhodium, by leading Australian jeweller Cerrone, extends to just below the knuckle in a tight coil, allowing the mass of black diamonds to make a powerful statement.
Small black diamonds have been used as accents in finished jewellery for years. Gabrielle Chanel, who knew how to harness the power of black and white, used the stone in her early Bijoux de Diamants collection. In 2012 the house marked the 80th anniversary of the collection by releasing the 1932 collection of unique jewels. Black diamonds can be seen as an essential element to the designs, adding edginess to what are essentially pretty pieces. Ribbonlike loops of pavé white diamonds are outlined in black diamonds to form flowers in rings and brooches, lifting the pieces aesthetically.
Black diamonds make great partners, too. They work brilliantly with white metals, such as sterling silver, white gold or white tungsten; for the Goth touch, they pair well with black rhodium. A single black diamond with a halo of white diamonds looks impressive, while smaller black diamonds set off white or pink pearls to perfection.
Black diamonds are also very chic. Georg Jensen is one of the great names that uses black diamonds in stylish ways. The sophisticated Fusion ring collection consists of end and centre rings in gold and gems. One of the most striking combinations is two white gold end rings sandwiching a centre band of black diamonds. The beauty of the Fusion collection is that it is possible to swap them around, with the end and centre rings in black diamonds, white diamonds or white gold. There could also be two black diamond end rings with a centre band of blue sapphires. Or you could go for all black, of course.