Why private dining in Singapore is like ‘eating at a friend’s home’
Guests can savour anything from Peranakan to artisanal Italian pastas and pizzas, homespun Cantonese dishes, hearty European classics and modern American fare
In October last year, I messaged celebrity make-up artist, Tinoq Russell Goh (@pasirpanjangboy) on Instagram to inquire about reservations at his twice-weekly Peranakan private dinners.
“Sorry, we are unfortunately fully booked till end of the year,” Goh replied. “We’re in the midst of planning Lunar New Year menu. We’ll put you on our waiting list if there are any cancellations.”
I never heard back from Goh.
But based on what I’ve read online, Goh’s guests have raved about his bakwan kepiting, ayam buah keluak and ngoh hiang – dishes that are easy to find in most Peranakan restaurants in Singapore.
Priced from S$120 to S$150 (US$88 to US$110) per guest, equivalent to the cost of a dinner tasting menu at one Michelin-starred Candlenut, the twice-weekly dinners hosted in Goh’s home cater to from eight to 10 guests each night.
In the home-dining sphere, make-up artist Goh is anything but alone. Over the past two years, Singapore has witnessed a vogue for private chefs, who range from a moonlighting food writer, violinist, shoe business operator and former banker to a clutch of professionally trained chefs, all operating from private residences and, in some cases, government-subsidised flats.
Apart from Peranakan fare, which is trending among home chefs, guests can expect to savour anything from artisanal Italian pastas and pizzas, to homespun Cantonese fare, hearty European classics and modern American fare.
In a city where everything, including restaurant operations, is tightly regulated, this boom in supper clubs hosted in private homes is an anomalous situation.