How to build a luxury watch collection: 4 tips for beginners, from Rolex’s notorious wait-lists and Cartier’s surprising approachability – to the secondary market and vintage timepiece auctions
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As a fashion writer, I’ve developed a deep appreciation for watches and jewellery, and the stories behind them.
Things like wait-lists and the process of buying vintage were all new to me before I started purchasing my own luxury watches in the last few years.
Here are four things I learned while building my watch collection.
1. You can’t always get what you want
![Rolex watches have a lengthy wait-list. Photo: Handout](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/03/01/b730b712-d8f6-4525-83f9-804da4ec1843_551c6ee7.jpg)
Luxury brands are making it harder for us to part with our money, but not for the reasons you might think.
Earlier this year, I went into my local Rolex retailer in Scotland. One of the watches I inquired about, a left-handed GMT-Master II, was a new and rare design, but I wanted to try my luck.
I was surprised to find out that regardless of how rare a watch might be, Rolex – along with other luxury brands like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe – no longer sells watches on the spot, as reported by The New York Times.
![An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak designed in collaboration with Matthew Williams from 1017 Alyx 9SM. Photo: Handout](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/03/01/bdc5b684-8489-47ee-ab9a-25fc3268584b_18bd2112.jpg)
Most luxury watch houses now require you to make a wish list, which means sitting down with a team member in the boutique and selecting the piece you’re interested in buying.
Because I wasn’t a repeat Rolex purchaser, I was told I wouldn’t be eligible to get access to these super-rare pieces. The reason wasn’t spelled out to me, but I understood that there are levels to the Rolex game, and I was still a beginner.
Instead, I was given options of more modestly priced pieces to put on my wish list. I was told that when a watch on my list became available, I’d be informed and given a strict 48-hour window to pay for and collect the watch.
When the phone call came a few months later about a watch becoming available, I was no longer interested in the piece I had inquired about – which, in hindsight, saved me a lot of money.
2. Some brands are more approachable than others
![The Cartier Crash design – the brand’s watches are more modestly priced, despite their heritage. Photo: @tanisova/Instagram](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/03/01/dbd9fc21-3d63-4e96-8ba3-1d298516433a_3c6c3b96.jpg)
One of my favourite watch brands is Cartier. It has more modestly priced pieces compared to other luxury brands, but still comes with a long heritage of watchmaking.
Cartier is also one of few brands which has pieces in stock, meaning if you see a watch you like, it likely has one to sell you.
When it comes to building a wait-list, in my experience, some watch brands can be more difficult to navigate.
Maybe it’s because I’m younger than a typical luxury watch customer, but in the past, I’ve been quizzed about my profession and the watches I already own. My guess is this was to gauge whether I can actually afford to buy more.
3. Buy a watch that fits your lifestyle
![Cristiano Ronaldo sporting one of his flashier pieces. Photo: @cristiano/Instagram](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/03/01/91686d4e-a465-4697-9aa1-9e86807efa93_8a66ae79.jpg)
Initially, I was drawn to big, flashy watches with gold and intricate detailing that can be spotted from a mile off – but I never ended up really wearing them.
I noticed that wearing something lightweight and minimal worked better with my daily routine and work life. I often travel alone for work and commute on public transport, so wearing a bold watch doesn’t feel safe to me, and doesn’t fit with my simpler aesthetic.
4. Vintage watches can be more bang for your buck
![Omega De Ville Prestige (left) 34mm in steel and 18k Sedna gold, mother of pearl dial; (right) 41mm with small seconds, sun-brushed pine green dial. Photo: Handout](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/03/01/951ae5ee-e907-4093-9118-b05d5379e6b9_e8ad1102.jpg)
My most recent purchase was an Omega gold quartz watch. I’m unclear on its exact information because it came with no receipt or “papers” on the style name and production year – a common occurrence when buying vintage watches.
I bought the piece on The Saleroom, a collection of legitimate auctions all over the world. It cost me £200, or around US$250, including taxes and buyer’s premium, a percentage you pay on top of the hammer price. Once it was shipped to me, I spent £10, or around US$12, at a local jeweller to have the battery replaced.
This is now the favourite watch that I own – and also the least expensive. It might be the buzz of a good bargain or the thrill of the hunt, but I suspect it won’t be my last vintage watch.
![Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer. Photo: Handout](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/03/01/1dd03d57-1aed-4126-874a-acc6a8951fba_aabb506c.jpg)
I’ve learned a lot of it is down to luck – a quiet day at the auction house means you’ll likely get a better deal than a busier one.
The catalogue containing the items to be sold is released weeks before the auction date, which gives ample time to do your own research on what’s available.
I also recommend setting a maximum hammer price for yourself, including the buyer’s premium and taxes, as you’ll only have a matter of seconds to decide during the auction.
There are thousands of watches on the secondary market, so you’re more likely to find one that’s a good fit for you at a price to match.
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- Hankering for a new Rolex, Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe? Bad news – the wait-list could extend for months and you may end up losing interest, writes Priya Raj
- If you’ve got your eye on a vintage luxury watch, follow the auction houses, but be prepared for a lack of papers – and be aware of buyer’s premium and shipping fees