The history of De Bethune’s singular approach to watchmaking: founder Denis Flageollet talks taking cues from Star Trek and inspiring celebrity fans like Michael Jordan and Alicia Keys

Dec 28 , 2023

De Bethune founder and watchmaker Denis Flageollet in his atelier. Photo: Ulysse Camus

Swiss watchmaker De Bethune only makes a few dazzling pieces at a time and has been creating signature timepieces like the Dream Watch 5 and DB28, reminiscent of Star Trek, since its founding in 2002

The independent maison’s founder Denis Flageollet recently paid Hong Kong a visit to unveil the jazzy DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire at The 1916 Company – here he shares his infectious passion for watchmaking with Style

“I like Star Trek,” admits Denis Flageollet, “but it wasn’t immediately what came to mind – I feel it’s somewhat narrow-minded to assume that.”

The founder of independent watchmaker De Bethune is talking to Style in person about what may be his most recognisable creation, the space-age-vibed Dream Watch 5. “I believe watches should open people up to experience different cultures and understand that the shape may resemble a spaceship, but it is more than that in my mind,” he reasons.

The delta-shaped Dream Watch 5 is one of De Bethune’s most recognisable watches. Photo: De Bethune

Accusations of sci-fi gimmickry aside, the brand has several more calling cards such as its flexible skeleton lugs, delta bridge motif (which may also be a source of Star Trek comparisons), and the unique shade of blue on their pieces that comes from a specific heat treatment of titanium.

Despite the brand’s short existence, De Bethune’s singular approach has seen it sit alongside those watchmakers who make a few dazzling pieces at a time, similar to close colleagues of Flageollet such as Francois-Paul Journe or Michel Parmigiani.

De Bethune is known for heat-treating their titanium to get a signature blue hue across their models. Photo: De Bethune

Indeed, its stellar 20-year history can be seen as a culmination of Flageollet’s watchmaking experience. As a fourth-generation horologist, he spent his youth in France near his grandfather’s workstation, reading the French comic Asterix & Obelix from which he still takes inspiration. He moved to Switzerland, joining the Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle working on clocks as a technician before co-founding the THA society with Journe in 1989.

Denis Flageollet is passionate about watchmaking. Photo: Ulysse Camus

“In 2002, it was the beginning of the millennium,” says Flageollet of the year he founded the brand, “so I thought it was perfect timing to bring ideas from traditional and even ancient watchmaking into contemporary times. The goal with the brand was to bring watchmaking culture into the present day.”