7 dress watches that pushed boundaries in 2023: from the Rolex 1908 to the historic Cartier Tank and Grand Seiko’s recreation of its first model, these timepieces brought their past to the future
- The not-quite-square but dressy Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin is based on a drawing by its late master designer, who founded the brand in 2000
- A classic yet contemporary statement is the Chopard L.U.C 1860, which has a chronometer-certified movement and uses a proprietary alloy which is 80 per cent recycled steel
As dress watches saw more time in the spotlight this year, one of the great shifts we noticed here at Style was that formal timepieces are often paying more ouvert homage to days past – we’re talking mid-century-esque, time-only pieces, in precious metal case, a la the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony or Patek Philippe Calatrava.
Whilst the brief for a dress watch is still an elegantly designed piece that discreetly matches your outfit for a formal occasion, 2023 saw boundaries pushed in design choices, materials and even the addition of complications that still make for a great evening occasion piece.
1. Nomos Glashütte Orion Neomatik 175 Years Watchmaking
When it comes to sleek design, it’s hard to look past the Glashütte region, renowned birthplace of German watchmaking. Among the brands playing on this heritage is Nomos Glashütte which adds a signature Bauhaus bent. Founded in 1990, Nomos is one of the newer brands in Glashütte but has its own manufacture making its movements and this year’s Orion Neomatik 175 Years Watchmaking shows the level of its invention, with a timepiece with small seconds dial, tempered blue hands and gold indices.
2. Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer
Meanwhile, 178-year-old neighbours Glashütte Original combine elegant design with a redesigned 42mm white gold case, “panorama date” at 3 o’clock with power reserve and discreet day/night indicator at 12 o’clock. All of this houses the Caliber 58-08 with a seconds-stop function, shooting the seconds hand back to 12 when the crown is pulled out for easy minutes regulation.
3. Rolex 1908
When it comes to precision, Rolex stands tall: the brand stunned at Watches and Wonders with a slim, refined 1908 model, housed in a 39mm 18k gold case capped with a domed and fluted bezel. Under the enamel dial with small seconds ticks a new, Rolex Côtes de Genève-decorated calibre. Which, of course, has Superlative Chronometer certification for an astonishing plus/minus two seconds deviation per day.