Jewellery inspired by traditional Chinese designs: Austy Lee, Meilan and Dawn Atelier combine ancient forms with modern lines
Of emperors and dynasties – see how ancient jade and gold, dragons and cranes are used in eye-catching, new ways
The history of jewellery in China is long and well documented, with pieces dating back as much as 3,000 years to the Shang dynasty that enmesh class, wealth, spirituality and superstition.
While jewellery was originally designed with opulence in mind – for emperors, queens and governors to denote high status – the concept has evolved as it did elsewhere to provide accessible adornments for the masses too.
“People want to wear something meaningful on their body,” said Noelle Chin, marketing lead at Meilan Jewelry and Arts. “They wear jewellery because it’s an extension of themselves and they want to reconnect to their heritage.”
Iconic materials in ancient Chinese jewellery include jadeite and gold, which were favoured for their beauty, rarity and – in the case of the former especially – because it “acted as a vessel” for the wearer to be closer to the gods, according to Yve Chan, founder of jewellery collective Dawn Atelier & Academy.
While still favoured today, the folklore associated with these materials “is fading”, explained Austy Lee of the eponymous art jewellery label, so houses today are now communicating this cultural significance through modern craftsmanship to educate Chinese and international audiences alike.
Other precious materials like silver, rubies and emeralds have grown in popularity over the last few decades of China’s economic boom that has spurred an interest in global culture and affected the landscape of jewellery purchasing like it has so much else.
“Jade is a broad term that can be separated into nephrite and jadeite,” Chan said. “Pieces in museums and auction houses over 1,000 years old are nephrite – they’re softer, paler and mined in northern parts of China.”
Most jadeite originates from Myanmar and comes in many colours, including white, green, blue-green, lavender, red, yellow and black, all produced by trace elements seeping into the stone.