Colour analysis in jewellery: Blackpink’s Rosé, Zendaya, Anne Hathaway, Priyanka Chopra Jonas and Song Hye-kyo show how to pick gems that suit their look from Tiffany & Co., Chaumet and Bulgari
American designer Suzanne Caygill built on the 19th century foundations of seasonal colour theory in the 1980s and Vivian Seo, of Find Your Colour Hong Kong, continues that work today
Professional colour analysis is the process of understanding your personal colour season – whether it be spring, summer, autumn or winter – to enhance your features through personal styling. It’s a concept that has been trending in Korea since 2022, and continues to be popular on social media today.
When considering this method of styling, clothing and make-up colours first come to mind, but jewellery can have an impact too. From the types of metal and materials used, to the stones and gems themselves, the pieces you wear can influence your overall appearance.
Vivian Seo, founder of personal colour consultation service Find Your Colour Hong Kong, breaks down the basics for those looking to select and style jewellery pieces that will best accompany your features and how to adapt pieces that might not suit your “season”.
The original concept of colour theory dates back to the 19th century, referencing colour mixing, contrast and harmony within visual arts. American fashion designer and stylist Suzanne Caygill adapted this and developed her own seasonal colour theory for dressing in the 1980s, which influences today’s system.
“Your season determines the mood of your style,” says Seo, adding that the purpose of this analysis is not to rule out what you shouldn’t wear, but how to choose and pair colours and accessories for a seamless, rather than overpowering, effect.
The four seasons are broken down into light, soft, clear, deep or true subtypes. Three elements help determine the respective shades that make up each subtype: hue (warm, cool or neutral undertones), brightness (light, medium or dark colours) and saturation (true or muted varieties).
For example, spring types look best in warm and vibrant colours; summer types suit cool, muted tones; autumn types should embrace rich colours with depth and warmth, while winter types can handle bold shades that are intense and cool.
“One thing many people overlook is the level of contrast in the colours they wear,” Seo says. High contrast refers to the stark pairing of black and white, or other deep colours teamed with pale colours, as well as true shades and even visually larger shapes in the styling. On the other hand, low contrast means wearing similar tones throughout a whole look, as well as choosing delicate patterns and smaller details overall.
“Jewellery can play a key part in increasing or decreasing the level of visual contrast effectively – it’s a bit like a cheat code,” says Seo. “For example, if your season calls for vivid colours and high contrast, but hotter temperatures are preventing you from wearing more clothing, accessorising with bold statement earrings or a necklace can do the trick.”
It also works if you’re better suited to softer and muted styles, but you’re looking to break up the intensity of a single colour ensemble. “You can layer multiple thin necklaces with small charms and delicate decorations, as this will immediately ‘soften’ [the appearance of the clothes along] your neckline.”