How luxe jewellery maisons are embracing geometric motifs: Chaumet, Chopard, Ronald Abram and Boucheron are taking cues from art deco with bold lines
Luxury jewellery brands are incorporating hexagons, cubes and sleek lines in their contemporary collections
Considered one of the most creative eras in design, the art deco period gave rise to jewellery that was characterised by its symmetry, bold lines and geometric patterns. Coupled with the use of strong colours, be it through gems, enamel or lacquer, jewellery from this period was instantly recognisable and often elaborate.
Since art deco’s rise in the 1920s, its aesthetics have become more niche. Starting in the 1950s, jewellery designers began gravitating towards more organic shapes or sculpted silhouettes like those by Jean Dinh Van, Elsa Peretti and Aldo Cipullo.
Still, pieces with sharp lines and defined proportions continued to come from brands like Cartier and Tiffany & Co. The directness of simple geometric shapes then later blended with the stark, industrial aesthetics prominent in architecture and art in the 1970s.
Geometric lines and bold corners continued to thrive in the 1980s and 1990s when the bold chunky chains and logo mania dominated. While luxury jewellers often find inspiration in flora and fauna and frequently gravitate towards creations that exude a sense of richness from their curves, there’s a lean towards geometric forms when it comes to fine jewellery.
These shapes lend themselves especially well to fine and demi-fine designs because the manipulation of lines and corners creates striking visuals, with or without the added sparkle from gems. Traces of bold lines and juxtaposed angles continue to appear – albeit in a pared-down expression – in contemporary designs.
Chaumet’s Bee My Love range features ring bands or bangles made up of hexagons. Taking inspiration from the meticulous construction of honeycomb, the collection draws upon the organic symmetry found in nature.
The six-sided shape is arranged to create linear designs like the ring and bangles, or more organically, in a combination of sizes to reflect a section of honeycomb.
While versions of the design feature a solitaire diamond set in each hexagon, the polished gold counterpart shines equally brightly. Chaumet offers versions of the design featuring the hexagon as outlines for an even more weightless look.
Another collection that takes inspiration from the angular sublimity of a hexagon is Ronald Abram’s Concentrica. Reimagining the classic hoop earring as a contemporary statement piece, three bold geometric lines are created with rows of round brilliant- and baguette-cut stones, individually set in white or yellow gold. Available in six combinations of stones, including diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald, the contrasting cuts and colours heighten the sleek silhouette.
