Using temperatures of up to 1,600 degrees Celsius and intense pressure, scientists mixed graphite (a crystalline form of carbon) with iron in the presence of two diamond seed crystals. The resulting stones were far too small for use as gems, but the discovery paved the way to the creation of gem-quality diamonds in 1971.

Today, most lab-created stones are crafted using one of two methods: either chemical vapour deposition or high pressure, high temperature. Both processes use hi-tech equipment to generate incredible pressures and heat, mimicking the conditions that create naturally occurring gemstones under the Earth’s surface. Now though, this equipment can be driven by renewable energy, offering what many deem a more sustainable alternative to mined stones.

“Colour is really one of the major perks of choosing lab-grown diamonds,” shares Keagan Ramsamy, co-founder and creative director of the Paris-based label Mazarin, which exclusively uses lab-grown stones in its recycled gold jewellery.

“They come in a wide array of colours, ranging from vibrant blues and pinks to yellows and greens, allowing consumers to find a diamond that suits their personal preference and style. The consumer benefits from a certain exclusivity as coloured diamonds often stand out with their unique hues as compared to the whites,” she continues. “On top of that, coloured lab-grown diamonds are often more affordable than their natural counterparts, making them an attractive option for consumers who want a high-quality gemstone without the hefty price tag.”

“With our philosophy centred on design, innovation and creative diversity, the selection of coloured lab-grown diamonds was a natural choice for Mazarin. The essence of this diversity is captured in the Mars & Venus capsule, where every earring and its adorned diamond are unique,” says Ramsamy. “We firmly believe that fusing traditional French savoir faire with innovation is paramount in shaping the heirlooms of tomorrow. Therefore, we are pioneering with the Mars & Venus capsule by offering exclusive jewels inlaid with upcycled quartz and adorned with lab-grown diamonds.”

At Los Angeles-based jewellery company Dorsey, the appeal of coloured lab-grown stones lies in their versatility. “Coloured lab-grown diamonds and gemstones offer the same brilliance as their mined counterparts. They can be created in a spectrum of colours – which in mined terms are deemed rare and incredibly expensive – at a much more attainable price,” says Meg Strachan, the brand’s founder and CEO. With Dorsey, Strachan has spotlighted these qualities with heritage-inspired designs, including cocktail rings, drop earrings and dainty rivière necklaces set with lab-grown nano crystals.

“Coloured lab-grown stones have become a part of our design vocabulary as they allow us to create beautiful statement pieces in rich hues at sharp price points,” she adds. “It’s about modern innovation meeting heritage, allowing us to create something entirely new that speaks to a long-standing tradition of exquisite, timeless design.”