Meghan Markle, Rihanna and Zendaya love lab-grown diamonds, while brands like Dorsey, Grown Brilliance and Mazarin are adding more colours as the alternative to natural diamonds gain fans

May 15 , 2024

The likes of Meghan Markle, Rihanna and Zendaya have declared their love of the lab-grown alternative to natural diamonds, and brands like Dorsey, Grown Brilliance and Mazarin (pictured) are fuelling interest by offering more colours. Photos: Handout

Keagan Ramsamy, co-founder and creative director of Mazarin, says colour is a major perk of lab-grown diamonds, while Meg Strachan, founder and CEO of Dorsey, highlights their affordability

Lab-grown techniques – chemical vapour deposition, or high pressure and high temperature – can offer potentially greater sustainability when driven by renewable energy

Synthesised or lab-grown gemstones – especially sapphires and emeralds – have been around for decades. While earlier methods produced relatively crude stones, the ensuing years have seen a long process of refinement.

Diamonds proved especially tricky, with the first successful attempt to grow them coming only in 1954, when scientists in the General Electric laboratories working on a project code-named “Superpressure” finally discovered two ways to do so.

Mazarin Mars & Venus lab-grown diamond earringa

Using temperatures of up to 1,600 degrees Celsius and intense pressure, scientists mixed graphite (a crystalline form of carbon) with iron in the presence of two diamond seed crystals. The resulting stones were far too small for use as gems, but the discovery paved the way to the creation of gem-quality diamonds in 1971.

Today, most lab-created stones are crafted using one of two methods: either chemical vapour deposition or high pressure, high temperature. Both processes use hi-tech equipment to generate incredible pressures and heat, mimicking the conditions that create naturally occurring gemstones under the Earth’s surface. Now though, this equipment can be driven by renewable energy, offering what many deem a more sustainable alternative to mined stones.

Just as with natural gems, lab-grown diamonds are the most sought after of artificial stones, appreciated by the likes of Meghan Markle, Rihanna and Zendaya. Usually they aim to mimic the natural colour of a white diamond – bright, extremely sparkly and with subtle hints of colour ranging from light yellow to light brown. Now, however, brands are expanding beyond this classic look with lab-grown diamonds in a variety of vibrant shades.

“Colour is really one of the major perks of choosing lab-grown diamonds,” shares Keagan Ramsamy, co-founder and creative director of the Paris-based label Mazarin, which exclusively uses lab-grown stones in its recycled gold jewellery.

“They come in a wide array of colours, ranging from vibrant blues and pinks to yellows and greens, allowing consumers to find a diamond that suits their personal preference and style. The consumer benefits from a certain exclusivity as coloured diamonds often stand out with their unique hues as compared to the whites,” she continues. “On top of that, coloured lab-grown diamonds are often more affordable than their natural counterparts, making them an attractive option for consumers who want a high-quality gemstone without the hefty price tag.”

Co-founded by Ramsamy, alongside fellow gemmology enthusiast Louise de Rothschild, Mazarin is best known for its Elephant collection, which recreates the silhouette of the gentle giant with cuffs, hoop earrings, cord bracelets and chunky, stackable rings in recycled 24k gold and white lab-grown diamonds. When it comes to coloured stones, the brand’s Mars & Venus line offers synthetic Asscher- and round-cut brilliant diamonds in a fancy intense blue hue, contrasted with lab-grown fancy light pink diamonds on a set of contrasting stud earrings that highlight the collection.