Very superstitious: from Coco Chanel to Christian Dior, fashion designers found faith in lucky charms – and today’s talismans continue to inspire, from FoundRae, Dyne and Cece Jewellery

Apr 13 , 2024

Cece Jewellery’s pieces are hand-enamelled on solid 18k gold. Photos: Handouts

Coco Chanel was famously superstitious, with brand totems such as the lion and the No 5 living on, while Christian Dior reportedly consulted his clairvoyant on all major decisions

Cartier’s Amulettes and Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra collection have long brought luck, and now brands like Cece Jewellery, FoundRae and Dyne by Sarah Ysabel Narici present a modern take on traditional talismans

When it comes to the allure of the mystical, those in the worlds of fashion and jewellery are certainly susceptible. A teenage Christian Dior reportedly saw a palm reader, who told the anxious young man that he would one day succeed – through women. He would consult another clairvoyant, Madame Delahaye, throughout his life.

“Without her, he did nothing. Nothing, nothing, nothing,” the fashion designer Pierre Cardin said, having encountered Delahaye at the Dior atelier.

Cece Jewellery’s pieces are hand-enamelled on solid 18k gold

Coco Chanel was famously superstitious throughout her life. Many of her treasured totems, such as the lion and the No 5, are still incorporated into the French maison’s creations – including its jewellery.

A source of protection and strength, talismans can be traced as far back as the Stone Age. Medieval knights wore charms in battle for protection, while Queen Victoria is credited with popularising the idea of sentimental jewellery.

Modern-day takes on talismans can found at brands such as FoundRae, which incorporates the zodiac into pieces that use stones with powers of healing, abundance and protection such as lapis, malachite, carnelian and onyx; and Dyne by Sarah Ysabel Narici, which integrates a client’s personal talismans into symbols on jewellery pieces. Van Cleef & Arpels has long celebrated luck with its Alhambra collection, and Cartier’s Amulettes are a chic way to ward off bad juju.

For London-based jeweller Cecilia Fein-Hughes, founder of Cece Jewellery, talismans – as well as folklore and fairy tales – are an important element of her creations, all of which are handcrafted in 18k yellow gold and incorporate details such as champlevé enamel and engravings.

Cece Jewellery 18k gold, champlevé enamel, diamond, ruby and sapphire Lovers pendulum

“I always look to the past for future inspiration, and talismanic symbolism feels both captivating and enchanting,” she says. “I usually weave a talismanic element into my designs through a combination of enamel paintings and engraved works or letters to conjure up a magical power.”