Vintage jewellery’s viral moment: Taylor Swift broke the internet when she lost her Van Cleef & Arpels ring’s stone at the MTV VMAs – now Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels is bringing more retro inspo
- Anna Ruzhnikov, head of Sotheby’s fine jewels sales in New York, and Nicolas Luchsinger, president of Van Cleef & Arpels Asia-Pacific, on why archival designs from houses like Cartier and Bulgari are trending
- Another rich source are epic collections such as that of Barbara Hutton, one of the US’ richest women, with its pieces from a key tastemaker of his time, the Maharaja of Indore
Of all the exceptional pieces to go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on December 5, it’s hard not to be entranced by pieces you can instantly recognise. An original Cartier coffee bean necklace, say, or graceful Ballerina clip from Van Cleef & Arpels.
Anna Ruzhnikov, head of Sotheby’s fine jewels sales in New York, says clients are increasingly interested in such recognisable pieces. They also want, she says, pieces that can be worn every day.
“The escalating demand for these versatile, statement-making pieces has correspondingly led to an increase in prices. Collectors are increasingly willing to spend more for jewellery that showcases exceptional design, even if they might not feature an abundance of pricey materials. In particular, styles that are recognisable or even iconic are commanding especially steep prices,” she says.
Ruzhnikov has noted a marked shift away from traditional jewellery, with bold gold archival designs from the likes of the major jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari fervently favoured.
“Many of our clients are now prioritising wearable elegance over flashier pieces like formal diamond necklaces that one might wear to a once-a-year event. Pieces from the 70s and 80s have been experiencing a renaissance, especially those with the adaptability for both day and evening wear. One example is a gold sautoir, which detaches into segments, allowing for use as bracelets or at various necklace lengths, perhaps with a pendant that doubles as a brooch. We’re seeing much greater demand for this kind of piece, which can serve as a striking statement accessory without appearing too showy,” she says.
For Nicolas Luchsinger, president of Van Cleef & Arpels Asia-Pacific, sourcing vintage treasures from the maison for clients is a true passion. A modern-day treasure-hunter, he launched the maison’s Heritage collection in 2007, to buy and resell vintage and antique pieces to clients.