The discovery of oud is steeped in folklore, with stories of ancient traders and travellers drawn by the captivating scent of burning agarwood, leading them on quests to find its source. Historically, it has symbolised wealth, captivating royalty and high society across the Middle East, South Asia and beyond.

“In the Middle East, oud reigns supreme as a beloved scent associated with luxury, tradition and religion. It has inspired perfume houses to use oud as a core element in their compositions, leading to a global perfume trend that transcends borders,” says Angel Cheung, olfactory artist and founder of Intime Artisan de Parfum.

Oud remains a spiritual and medicinal beacon in many cultures. In traditional Eastern medicine, it was prized for its healing properties, believed to soothe the mind and body. Meanwhile, in Islamic cultures, its aroma is cherished during religious ceremonies, and its smoke is believed to carry prayers to the divine.

The boldness of oud’s aroma has often been a challenge to Western noses, accustomed to lighter floral and citrus scents. However, the undoubted allure of the exotic has combined with a growing appreciation for niche fragrances to see oud secure a place in luxury collections. “Asia, with its preference for fresh, light and subtle fragrances, may not fully embrace the intense oud perfumes commonly found in major houses,” Cheung says. Nonetheless, during her perfume-making workshops, she has met clients fascinated by oud. “For them, I suggested incorporating a hint of oud to enhance their bespoke perfumes without overpowering them.”

The aroma of oud is influenced by the age of the wood, the specific species of tree, the environmental conditions in which it has grown and the way in which it has been processed. These elements significantly shape the final scent, ensuring that no two ouds are entirely alike, with each batch telling its own story.

Once the ideal oud has been sourced, the next challenge lies in its incorporation into a fragrance. Its potent profile can easily dominate a scent, overshadowing more subtle notes.

Emmanuelle Moeglin, perfumer and founder of London’s Experimental Perfume Club, says it can be quite intense for those unfamiliar with its rich, complicated aroma. “For newcomers, I would recommend starting with oud fragrances that incorporate it as a supporting note rather than the dominant one. Look for blends where oud is balanced with lighter, more familiar scents such as florals, citrus or spices,” she suggests, to avoid potentially overwhelming the senses.

Given its complex profile, oud can harmonise with scents such as rose, white florals, musk, wood and oriental notes. This versatility and its capacity to elevate fragrances to another level inspired Cheung when curating a bespoke fragrance for The Peninsula Hong Kong hotel. “By balancing the intense masculinity of oud with jasmine and amber, we achieved a well-rounded, warm and soothing aroma that appeals to both genders,” she says.

Similarly, her signature perfume – Hong Kong Story – strikes a delicate balance between the strong masculinity of oud and the intense femininity of white champacs. It becomes more compelling still when you remember that Hong Kong’s very name comes from the Cantonese for “fragrant harbour”, referring to the scent of agarwood, long harvested in the territory.

Other scents that pair oud with familiar notes like vanilla, amber or jasmine offer a gateway to appreciating its richness without the intensity of pure oud. Brands like Diptyque, Jo Malone and Tom Ford have crafted fragrances that balance accessibility with exotic allure, making them perfect options for beginners.

Moeglin says the first step to choosing a scent is to pay attention to the source used in the fragrance. “Authentic oud comes from the resinous heartwood of agarwood trees. Fragrances that use genuine oud oil extracted from this wood tend to have a richer, more complex aroma compared to synthetic alternatives,” she says.

It’s also worth noting that oud’s high value fuels poaching of aquilaria wood in many countries so look for brands that insist on sustainable natural sources, whereby the resinous wood is extracted carefully enough to allow the tree to continue to grow, rather than it being cut down entirely.

Next, consider the composition of the fragrance. “A well-crafted scent should exhibit a harmonious balance between the intense, woody notes of oud and complementary elements such as florals, spices or resins,” Moeglin notes, suggesting looking for fragrances that blend the oud with other high-quality ingredients for a multidimensional olfactory experience.

Finally, Moeglin recommends paying attention to the longevity and trail of the fragrance. “High-quality oud fragrances often have excellent staying power, with the aroma evolving gracefully over time. They should also project an aura of sophistication and refinement, leaving a memorable impression without overpowering the senses.”