Why Kering is buying a chunk of Valentino as Gucci sales slow: François-Henri Pinault’s French giant secured the US$1.8 billion deal with Qatar’s Mayhoola amid struggles to keep up with LVMH
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The French company has the option to purchase the rest of Valentino from its owner, Qatar’s Mayhoola, before the end of 2028, the groups said Thursday. The deal is part of a strategic partnership that could lead to Mayhoola taking a stake in Kering, they said.
![A Gucci luxury clothing boutique, operated by Kering SA, in central Paris, France. Photo: Bloomberg](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/07/31/a824c72f-04b6-421d-a6b9-c36199ce865c_3aeb65d0.jpg)
![François-Henri Pinault is the CEO of Kering. Photo: Bloomberg](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/07/31/80b43b69-9031-43a6-a4af-f6a20a5def1e_edb87f31.jpg)
![A model wears a creation for the Valentino haute couture autumn/winter 2023-24 fashion collection presented in Chantilly, north of Paris, on July 5. Photo: AP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/07/31/9fe807c6-4538-4624-8219-7dc042f4d6be_fd05977e.jpg)
The Valentino deal “is a major positive at a decent multiple, and a sound fit to help accelerate growth during a transition period for the Gucci brand”, Bloomberg Intelligence analyst Deborah Aitken said in a note. The brand had revenue of €1.4 billion last year while earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation came in at €350 million. It operates 211 stores in more than 25 countries, according to the companies.
![Dove Cameron, from left, Ashley Park, Florence Pugh and Zendaya pose for a photographer upon arrival at the Valentino ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection presented in October 2022, in Paris. Photo: AP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/07/31/3c9958fa-91b2-4bb3-adf7-20f13dd16f33_73637f94.jpg)
![Argentinian football player Lionel Messi (centre) holds up his No 30 shirt during a press conference at the French football club Paris Saint-Germain’s (PSG) Parc des Princes stadium in Paris, in August 2021. Photo: AFP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/07/31/47c2bad0-97d2-44a3-9649-85c10a0a44de_f2e90c55.jpg)
A Kering holding by Mayhoola would mark another prominent French investment for Qatari firms, which have snapped up assets in recent years, including the Paris Saint-Germain football club.
Gucci sales rose just one per cent in the second quarter on a comparable basis, the company said Thursday, well behind the 4.2 per cent gain analysts expected.
![Gucci is one of the world’s most well-recognised luxury fashion brands. Photo: Bloomberg](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/07/31/2d56af98-e73a-4a3e-aa62-c784c81cd44e_3aeb65d0.jpg)
Kering, which gets two thirds of its profit from the brand, has already shaken up leadership to revive its appeal. Last week, the company announced the impending exit of Gucci chief executive officer Marco Bizzarri, to be replaced on a temporary basis by Jean-François Palus, a trusted lieutenant of CEO Pinault. Kering will start a search for a permanent Gucci CEO from September, Pinault said.
![Designer Alessandro Michele acknowledges the applause of the public during Gucci Cosmogonie at Castel Del Monte in May 2022, in Andria, Italy. Photo: Getty Images](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/07/31/f6ca9c38-ce87-4000-ae90-112366e802f1_a3f9985e.jpg)
![Sabato de Sarno will unveil his debut collection for Gucci in September. Photo: @sabatods/Instagram](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/07/31/acc6bd62-546b-4353-b846-14e0683e107d_2074e04f.jpg)
The agreement with Mayhoola was done “quite fast”, and the goal was to sign the deal before the summer, Kering chief financial officer Jean-Marc Duplaix told analysts in a call.
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- French fashion conglomerate Kering SA has confirmed that it will buy a 30 per cent stake in Italian brand Valentino, as growth at its biggest brand Gucci continues to lag
- Valentino, worn by celebrities like Zendaya and Florence Pugh, was acquired by Qatar’s Mayhoola over a decade ago – and the strategic partnership adds to Kering’s ever-expanding portfolio of brands