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Paris Haute Couture Week last day round up: Shakira was front row at Fendi’s impressive, high jewellery-inspired show, Imane Ayissi brought the colour – and Chloé confirms Gabriela Hearst is leaving

Models present an initial parade of nude creations by Kim Jones at Fendi during the Women’s Haute-Couture Fashion Week in Paris on July 6. Photo: AFP
Fendi put a fitting exclamation point on Paris couture week by drawing an A-list crowd to the opulent Palais Brongniart. Naomi Watts, Zoe Saldana, Cardi B, Lily James and Shakira were among the celebrities seated front row for a show that dazzled with its artful fusion of jewellery-making and deceptively simple couture.

Elsewhere, fashion whispers were finally confirmed: Gabriela Hearst is stepping down as the creative director of Maison Chloé after a brief but impactful three-year tenure. Hearst, the first female designer with multicultural roots (Uruguay and United States) to lead a Parisian fashion house, has been a transformative force at Chloé since her appointment in December 2020.

Here are some highlights of the last day of fall couture shows on Thursday:

Sparkle and shine: Fendi literally puts the bling in couture

Kim Jones initially sent his models out in strikingly nude ensembles, before the jewel inspired collection began. Photo: AFP

“This season, our focus was on embodying fluidity, drape and shape through couture techniques, while harmonising these elements with the contemporary spirit,” declared Kim Jones, Fendi’s designer.

One piece was a fluid emerald green satin gown that cascaded down the model’s body, shimmering with the dynamism of a precious gem. Photo: Xinhua

The show began with a strikingly neutral ensemble, seemingly a second skin, acting as the prelude to the jewellery-inspired collection. The design skill was evident in its huge, eccentric sleeve that darted out narrowly from the shoulder, capturing imaginations. In stark contrast came a fluid emerald green satin gown that cascaded down the model’s body, shimmering with the dynamism of a precious gem.

A model presents a vibrant, ruby red creation by Kim Jones at Fendi’s autumn/winter 2023/2024 haute couture show on July 6. Photo: Xinhua

Figure-defining silhouettes in vibrant ruby red and jet black were showcased by models, their forms distilled down to their essential sinews. A cream sheath, brought to life with an Asian-inspired waist wrap, bore finely carved groove lines, invoking the refined artistry of jewellery craftsmanship.

At Fendi, Kim Jones presented a deceptively simple collection, which was met with enthusiastic applause. Photo: Xinhua

Looks that seemed to unfurl from the shoulders left necklace-less necks provocatively bare, as if in anticipation of an exquisite adornment.

A model presents a creation from Fendi’s autumn/winter 2023/2024 haute couture collection during Paris Fashion Week on Thursday. Photo: Xinhua
The show was a poetical ode to couture. “Our canvas was a template inspired by high jewellery. Even in the absence of physical jewellery, its essence is echoed through the collection’s colour palette and ornamentation, with the clothes themselves channelling the spirit of jewellery,” Jones explained. “We took cues from the flesh tones and the hues of stones: black diamonds, rubies, sapphires. It’s a dance of soft and hard, flesh and stone.”
Inspired by jewels and gems, Kim Jones said the collection was “a dance of soft and hard, flesh and stone”. Photo: Xinhua

The collection embodied that philosophy in a showcase of Fendi’s creative prowess. The rousing applause at its finale signalled Fendi’s successful defiance of traditional couture boundaries, once again.

Imane Ayissi’s vibrant culture fusion

Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi injected vibrant colour and cultural fusion into Women’s Haute-Couture Fashion Week in Paris on July 6. Photo: AFP

Cameroon-born couturier Imane Ayissi’s latest collection, also presented at Paris Couture Week on Thursday, delivered a punch of vibrant colour and cultural fusion, reflecting his unique approach to couture that marries African inspirations with European codes.

Designer Imane Ayissi sent models down the runway with theatrical brows and colourful earrings. Photo: AFP

The presentation saw a profusion of bright hues and eclectic style. Painted coloured eyebrows and round orange earrings lent an edgy boost to the collection, amplifying the designer’s knack for theatricality honed from his early career in the Cameroon National Ballet.

Imane Ayissi’s top made from vermilion flowers was a nod to the dynamic African wrap. Photo: AFP

One stand-out piece was a top creatively constructed from a myriad of vermilion flowers, a nod to the dynamic African wrap, contrasted with striking blue trousers. The ensemble exemplified Ayissi’s signature fusion of styles and his ability to transform traditional African fabrics and concepts into couture.

Models present creations by Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi during his women’s haute-couture autumn/winter 2023/2024 show in Paris on July 6. Photo: AFP

A light green satin couture dress with a cascading cape offered a graceful take on European fashion norms, while an unstructured yellow dress with a bold fuchsia bow on the midriff further underscored Ayissi’s playful use of colour.

Jewels meet art: Repossi’s ‘Antifer’ inspires artists

Twisting the traditional at Repossi. Photo: @repossi/Instagram

In an intersection of contemporary art and high-end jewellery design, Repossi celebrated the 10th anniversary of its “Antifer” collection with an exhibition on Paris’ chic Left Bank. The legacy Italian brand, rooted in fine jewellery craftsmanship since 1920, transformed a lush garden into an elegant stage for the milestone.

Repossi launched several new pieces to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its Antifer collection. Photo: @repossi/Instagram

The “Antifer” collection, recognised for its minimalist lines and architectural inspiration, has become an emblematic part of the Repossi brand over the past decade. Reflecting this aesthetic, the evening showcased a curated collection of works from six international artists, each offering a distinct artistic interpretation of the “Antifer” design.

Repossi’s Antifer 10 rows ring in pink gold paved with diamonds. ⁣ Photo: @repossi/Instagram

The event explored creative dialogue between art and jewellery, with guests enjoying a relaxed garden party atmosphere complete with a DJ and art displays inspired by the jewellery collection.

The curated artworks, together with the “Antifer” collection, will be available for public viewing at the Amelie, Maison d’Art Gallery starting July 7.

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  • Shakira, Cardi B, Zoe Saldana, Naomi Watts and Lily James sat front row at Kim Jones’ collection of shimmering emerald green, ruby red and sparkling diamond jewellery-inspired creations for Fendi
  • Meanwhile Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi transformed traditional African fabrics into colourful couture, and avant-garde jeweller Repossi staged a show in a garden on Paris’ left bank