Why genderless pieces are high jewellery’s next frontier: luxury brands like Chanel, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co. and Cartier are at the forefront, rocked by celebs from Harry Styles to Blackpink’s Lisa

May 16 , 2023

Liu Wen and Jing Boran in a campaign for Chanel Coco Crush. Photo: Handout

Harry Styles is known for sporting gender-neutral jewellery, while A$AP Rocky sat at a recent Gucci show wearing diamond snowflake earrings – proving that men, too, can deck out in some sparkle

Alexandre Arnault has been shaking things up at Tiffany & Co. with the ‘genderless’ Lock bracelet, while Blackpink’s Jennie and a male model both donned pieces from Chanel’s Coco Crush line

If pop star and style icon Harry Styles’ penchant for pearls hadn’t already convinced you, then A$AP Rocky sitting front row at the most recent Gucci show in Milan wearing the most resplendent diamond snowflake earrings ought to emphasise the point: all jewellery is genderless, really. Especially now.

Still, it hasn’t always been this way. “In 2023, we are living in a world of self-expression where gender conformities are being challenged,” says Lydia Tufnell, category manager for jewellery at Farfetch. “Many areas of our lives, from our clothing, to our interiors, are now an expression of our personalities today, and jewellery is no exception.”

Lisa from Blackpink wearing a Bulgari B. Zero1 four-band ring. Photo: Bulgari

But there remain plenty of nuances and cultural aspects to consider when thinking about genderless gems. “While gender-neutral jewellery is on the jewellery industry’s radar, for some cultures it has long been part of their tradition,” adds Tufnell. “India is a great example of this, where jewellery and body jewellery have never been confined to gender, but is valued, treasured and worn by both women and men.”

Many luxury jewellers such as Bulgari – with its B. Zero 1 collection – Tiffany & Co. and Cartier already offer gender-fluid pieces. Cartier’s iconic Love bracelet was launched in 1969, with the maison sending some of the most famous couples of the time – the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, and Ali McGraw and Steve McQueen – a pair of bangles. With their own matching Love tokens, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex are one example of how the piece is still worn, and loved, by men and women today.

NBA player Kyle Kuzma wearing Tiffany Lock bracelets. Photo: Tiffany & Co.

Meanwhile, Tiffany & Co. just launched its new Lock bracelet, touted as a “genderless icon”. The campaign for the collection launch included model Imaan Hammam and actor and professional skateboarder Tyshawn Jones. The tagline for the range, which draws on the blue-chip jeweller’s archives is, “No rules. All welcome.”

Alexandre Arnault, who has been shaking things up at Tiffany & Co. since joining in 2021 as executive vice-president of product and communications, considers the Lock a new chapter for the brand. “Tiffany Lock is an elegant interpretation of an archival functional design. Defined by modern, clean lines and a breakthrough clasp mechanism, Tiffany Lock represents an exciting new pillar to our diamond and gold jewellery offering,” he said.

Chanel Coco Crush bracelets. Photo: Chanel

In the latest campaign for Chanel’s fine jewellery Coco Crush line, each piece is inspired by the maison’s famous quilting, with Blackpink’s Jennie shining alongside a male model who is also adorned with the pieces. The maison’s holiday campaign featured male models wearing Coco Crush too and right now, what could be more romantic than jewellery designed to be shared?