Paris Fashion Week 2023: Hermès went monochrome, Vivienne Westwood’s show paid tribute to the late icon, and Elie Saab looked to florals, with Elon Musk’s mum Maye, Avril Lavigne and Halsey in tow
Models presenting creations from Hermès’ womenswear autumn/winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on March 4. Photos: AFP
The dull Paris weather did not dim the power of the French capital’s ready-to-wear shows continued on the weekend, from March 4 to 6, vibrantly spanning the restrained colours of minimalism to Renaissance exuberance.
Here are some highlights of Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023-24 collections …
Elie Saab says it with flowers
A model presents a creation by Elie Saab for its autumn/winter 2023-24 collection at Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashion Week on March 4. Photo: 高静通联
Singers Ciara and Avril Lavigne and Elon Musk’s mother Maye negotiated crowds and slippery stone steps to get to the Palais de Tokyo, the venue for Elie Saab’s show. Inside, the Lebanese designer presented an ode to the bouquets of the Renaissance, with flowers blooming from every nook, cranny, seam and hem.
A ruby-coloured dress is presented by a model for Elie Saab’s autumn/winter 2023-24 prêt-à-porter collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, on March 4. Photo: Xinhua
Tailored looks featured blossoming hydrangea embroidery above flared 1970s-style pants, as well as brooding dark prints in ruby and flashes of dazzling citrine.
A model wears a bold lime-green creation as part of the Elie Saab autumn/winter 2023-24 ready-to-wear collection presented on March 4, in Paris. Photo: AP
The collection crescendoed passionately into the evening with Saab’s bread-and-butter va-va-voom silhouettes. Sheer mermaid gowns and dresses with sinuous three-dimensional florets glimmered with paillettes and tulle.
Maye Musk, left, and Ciara pose for photographers at the Elie Saab autumn/winter 2023-24 ready-to-wear collection presented on March 4, in Paris. Photo: AP
The best looks were figurative, such as an Asiatic pleated cummerbund that fanned out dramatically like opening petals.
Stars pay tribute to Vivienne Westwood
A model presents a creation with the face of the late fashion designer Vivienne Westwood during Vivienne Westwood’s autumn/winter 2023-24 collection during Paris Fashion Week at the Hôtel de la Marine, on Place de la Concorde in Paris, on March 4. Photo: AFP
Saturday saw the first Paris show for Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood since the British fashion icon died in December, aged 81 – attracting the great and the good of the industry. (Kronthaler is Westwood’s widower and for years has been her fashion house’s creative heir.)
A model presents a daring creation during Vivienne Westwood’s autumn/winter 2023-24 collection during Paris Fashion Week at the Hôtel de la Marine, on Place de la Concorde in Paris, on March 4. Photo: AFP
Speaking to Associated Press, front row guest Jared Leto called her death “heartbreaking”, saying that he was inspired by her spirit as a kid. “She was such a maverick and an iconoclast – in the best sense of those words.”
Vivienne Westwood’s autumn/winter 2023-24 collection was a celebration of the iconic late designer during Paris Fashion Week at the Hôtel de la Marine, on Place de la Concorde in Paris, on March 4. Photo: AFP
The actor and musician added: “Anybody that’s ever put a safety pin in a shirt owes her a debt for encouraging us to think differently!”
A model wears a strapless creation as part of Vivienne Westwood’s autumn/winter 2023-24 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week at the Hôtel de la Marine, on Place de la Concorde in Paris, on March 4. Photo: AFP
Jean Paul Gaultier called her “the queen of English fashion”. “What she is, she put it in the clothes – and you could see her. You could see her impertinence, her rebellion and her way of playing with the structure of the clothes.” He added, “I truly love her.”
Georgia May Jagger, from left, Julia Fox, Jared Leto and Halsey pose before the Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2023-24 ready-to-wear collection presented on March 4, in Paris. Photo: AP
Georgia May Jagger, model and daughter of rock legend Mick Jagger, called Westwood “a revolutionary”. Jagger also noted the British designer’s activism: “She made her fight for climate change at the forefront of her fashion. She’s a complete intellectual, someone that read a lot, that really educated everyone around her.”
Hermès’ fashion as camouflage
A model presents a creation by Hermès as part of its autumn/winter 2023-24 prêt-à-porter collections during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, on March 4. Photo: Xinhua
Hermès creative director Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski made a simple, but powerful, proposition for autumn – creating each look in the same shade of colour so it seemed to melt into itself, like camouflage.
Models wore designs that were often matched with pieces in the same colour by Hermès as part of its autumn/winter 2023-24 prêt-à-porter collections during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, on March 4. Photo: Xinhua
“Just as a second skin exists beneath the surface of a tree, a bark like fabric, there is a dialogue constantly taking shape between materials, between colours, between details,” the fashion house said, poetically.
A model presents a beige creation by Hermès as part of its autumn/winter 2023-24 prêt-à-porter collections during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, on March 4. Photo: AFP
The one-colour concept created a minimalist feeling even when the looks featured layering and details, such as long duffel-style coats in double-sided cashmere, zip-up coats in shiny lambskin, embroidery, belts, buckles and straps.
A model presents a textured creation by Hermès as part of its autumn/winter 2023-24 prêt-à-porter collections during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, on March 4. Photo: AFP
The first look, a loose textured double skirt dress, came in cognac red. It featured a hat reminiscent of equestrians styles – unsurprising given the house’s close association with show jumping.
Another monochromatic ensemble by Hermès as part of its autumn/winter 2023-24 prêt-à-porter collections during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, on March 4. Photo: AP
The monochromatic musing continued throughout amid textural tensions – such as one sheeny red silk pleated skirt that contrasted chicly with the accompanying long suede boots.
Japan’s fashion-forward heir
A model presents a creation from Junya Watanabe’s womenswear autumn/winter 2023-24 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on March 4. Photo: AFP
Junya Watanabe, the protégé of Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo, was in fine fashion forward form Saturday, continuing with his often-referenced theme of monozukuri.
A model wears a black-and-red creation as part of the Junya Watanabe autumn/winter 2023-24 ready-to-wear collection presented on March 4, in Paris. Photo: AP
It means “making of things” in Japanese and has now come to mean innovations in fashion production and using technology to make materials.
A model wears a utilitarian creation as part of the Junya Watanabe autumn/winter 2023-24 ready-to-wear collection presented on March 4, in Paris. Photo: AP
For autumn, the talented Japanese designer went full-on utilitarian for a dark and aggressive display that used toggles, armour-like padded coats, ninja mouth coverings and black head gear that evoked the garb of combative sports such as fencing.
A model presents a creation from Junya Watanabe womenswear autumn/winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on March 4. Photo: AFP
Braided hair was wrapped around the head and face like protection for a dramatic effect on the mistily lit runway.
A model presents a dramatic creation from Junya Watanabe womenswear autumn/winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on March 4. Photo: AFP
Flashes of swirling colour, including neon blue, nicely fused the themes of cycling and combat, while structured black leather coats with eyelets, straps, buckles and zips merged biker gear with traditional Asian dress.
Coming in straight from Paris Fashion Week’s weekend shows: Hermès channelled its inner minimalist with monochromatic looks while Elie Saab brought florals to the runway, with VIP guests like Ciara
Vivienne Westwood’s tribute event featured A-listers like Jared Leto, Jean Paul Gaultier, Georgia May Jagger and Julia Fox, and Commes des Garçons protégé Junya Watanabe put on a dramatic display
