Who are the emerging young designers to know from NYFW 2023? Besides fashion fixtures Coach, Michael Kors and Caroline Herrera, new brands like Elena Velez, Melke and KGL are making waves this year

Feb 14 , 2023

A model poses for pictures ahead of the Collina Strada show during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) in New York, on February 10. Photo: AFP

New York Fashion Week 2023 saw a string of promising young designers come to the stage, while big-namers like Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and previous CFDA lead Tom Ford were noticeably absent

Fenty lingerie’s Rihanna also gave the event a miss as she was at the NFL Super Bowl, while designers like Herve Leger’s Christian Juul Nielsen worked at Dior, Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta before

New York Fashion Week got under way on February 10, with several big names absent from the runway but a calendar packed full of young designers and emerging labels – increasingly the event’s trademark.

Fashion from Rodarte 2023 autumn collection is modelled during Fashion Week, on February 10, in New York. Photo: AP

Rodarte opened the autumn/winter 2023 parade, one of the few major brands to return this year.

A model wears a shimmering silver-coloured statement dress for Rodarte’s 2023 autumn collection during Fashion Week, on February 10, in New York. Photo: AP

Rodarte, the upscale brand of California sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, offered a gothic and mystical show with models parading in black dresses with flared sleeves and occasionally plunging necklines.

A model walks the runway at the Collina Strada show during New York Fashion Week on February 10, in New York City. Photo: Getty Images

The Collina Strada show was an ode to animals in a menagerie atmosphere. One bewhiskered model “meowed” in front of the delighted audience, followed by a model with a rhinoceros horn and another with a pig snout.

A model wearing an animal snout walks the runway at the Collina Strada show during New York Fashion Week on February 10, in New York City. Photo: Getty Images

The streetwear touch of the brand is still there, but the colours are less psychedelic, more sober and elegant.

Those who like theatrical shows will also enjoy the return to New York – with a show on February 14 – of Thom Browne, who succeeds Tom Ford at the head of the American fashion union (CFDA).