How high jewellers reimagined classic bridal gems in 2022, from coloured diamonds like J. Lo’s engagement ring by Rahaminov, to Tiffany & Co.’s platinum rings and Boucheron’s minimalist series

Dec 15 , 2022

The trend for a return to coloured stones – diamonds or otherwise – in wedding jewellery means there are more ways than ever to say “I do”. Photo: Getty Images

The spring/summer shows at Couture Fashion Week in Paris saw plenty of dreamy bridal gowns … and sparkling modern takes on classic bridal jewellery too

Mikimoto went the more traditional route with feminine pearls, Chaumet’s tiaras took inspiration from Napoleon’s wife Empress Joséphine, and you can’t go wrong with Graff’s bow motif

When wedding dresses lit up the spring/summer Couture Fashion Week in Paris earlier this year, there were dreamy bridal gowns aplenty. Adding further sparkle, luxury high jewellers were also out in force, with reimagined classics and modern takes on traditional styles. Several maisons elevated the diamond code – fancy-coloured diamonds are the latest heroes in bridal rings with the mantra being “the rarer, the better”. Today’s haute picks are fancy yellows, blush pinks and orangey browns, and unencumbered by traditional aesthetics, the brands are flaunting these diamonds through stylish settings and pavéd shanks.

Rahaminov Diamonds has a penchant for blinging up Hollywood celebs. A beautiful recent example is Jennifer Lopez’s second engagement ring from Ben Affleck. Designed by Rahaminov’s team, at the heart of the three-stone setting lies a 8.5-carat natural green diamond sourced by Ilan Portugali of Beverly Hills Diamonds.

Chaumet Joséphine Aigrette Impériale necklace.

Bridal jewellery, tiaras and diadems are unarguably Chaumet’s forte and the maison has enriched its offering with inspirations from the favourite jewels of Napoleon’s first wife, Empress Joséphine. The Joséphine collection includes the Impériale tiara and Aube Printanière tiara, bracelets and earrings, all embellished with dazzling diamonds that reinforce the maison’s desire to draw on the past, yet create modern jewellery. The rings in particular embrace colour through their use of yellow diamonds and sapphires. Finally, bridal jewellery is incomplete without a diamond-sprinkled timepiece – in this case the Joséphine Aigrette collection’s horological variations on the iconic pear shape with leather straps or jewelled bracelets.

Boghossian Les Merveilles hoop earrings.

Geneva-based Boghossian turns its classic diamond encrusted band on its head with a touch of gem-setting ingenuity in the Merveilles Bridal collection, cleverly setting diamonds along the sides to leave barely any metal in sight in its eternity bands, bridal rings, short drops and hoop earrings.

“In our bridal line, an abundance of light flows through each gem, representing the infinite love between two soul mates. We are setting the gems in designs that will surprise and astonish,” says Roberto Boghossian, managing partner at Boghossian. Besides diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds also take centre stage in Merveilles bridal rings.

David Morris oval fancy intense yellow diamond ring.

British jeweller David Morris, meanwhile, celebrates the special moment by elevating the classic single halo diamond rings and three-stone settings with fancy pink round diamonds and fancy intense yellow oval diamonds tucked onto dreamy rings. Cushion-cut diamonds, and old favourites rubies and sapphires, are set with prongs or accented with a diamond halo to add extra sparkle. White pear-shaped diamonds – a fancy shape and a popular choice for bridal rings – let you nimbly try something different to the traditional. Then take your pick from their dainty tiaras encrusted with diamonds and you are sorted for the big day.