On Her Watch: How luxury watchmakers are diversifying women’s timepiece sizes, from Chanel’s J12 Wanted De Chanel and Patek Philippe’s Calatrava, to Vacheron Constantin’s Les Royaumes Aquatiques

Sep 8 , 2022

Armed with options: Chanel today offers women everything from matt black ceramic timepieces to secret watches. Photo: Chanel

In the fifth of our six-part series on women’s watches, we look at how brands are diversifying their female-friendly offerings – beyond simply creating versions of men’s novelties with smaller dials

Patek Philippe’s Calatrava has added a moonphase and the Rolex Oyster Perpetual has pink detailing, but the ultimate women’s design might be Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé Bouton secret watch

It’s one of my pet peeves: a luxury watch brand launches a women’s collection, unveiling a line that is identical to their men’s novelties, just with smaller dials. The design of the watch may have some appeal, but if the watches didn’t delight in a larger size, they will not be attractive to women just because they’ve been shrunk.

When I view these women’s novelties, I am struck by how cursory the efforts have often been for what is a growing market. Of course, the watch industry isn’t the only one guilty of this – female sneakerheads will have noticed long ago that men’s trainers have far more varied designs and colourways.

But spending US$20,000 on a luxury timepiece is very different to picking out US$200 shoes. I expect to see elements that make a watch more feminine beyond its size, while it should also boast worthy complications.

Bigger sizes can work too

Panerai’s Luminor Due Goldtech Madreperla is the smallest novelty in its storied collection. Photo: Panerai

Many women don’t mind bigger watches if they really like the style or the complications, although 41mm to 42mm is probably about the maximum, unless you have a particularly large wrist.

Panerai’s Luminor line is an example. Despite sizes going up to a massive 50mm, the brand’s mainstay was popular with women – especially the 40mm and 42mm models, which became a fashion statement for sporty buyers. Now they have launched more petite versions with the 38mm Luminor Due Goldtech Madreperla the smallest novelty in the collection, its mother-of-pearl dial matches with a colourful strap making it an attractive choice for women.

Breitling’s Navitimer too was initially made for men in 46mm and 48mm, but first added a more unisex size with its 41mm model and now has a 35mm version.

Make a real statement with the powerfully simple Chanel J12 Wanted De Chanel, 38mm. Photo: Chanel

Luxury fashion house Chanel also first introduced its iconic ceramic J12 in 41mm, with its classic gleaming black or white ceramic making it a popular unisex choice. Even then, Chanel was quick to hone in on not just its women’s market but also the Asian gentleman with a smaller wrist. It is now predominantly introducing 38mm models, such as the latest Wanted de Chanel collection.

The exclusive J12 Highly Wanted De Chanel offers six stunning pieces in tone-on-tone matt black ceramic in a limited edition that can be bought individually. Another 2022 limited edition, the J12 Wanted De Chanel 38mm, also offers a black option, with the brand’s name emblazoned in capital letters on the dial and bezel. Both the limited editions look equally chic on men and women.

The Patek Philippe Complications Hand Wind 33mm includes a moonphase. Photo: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe capped its more elegant Calatrava range at 39mm, but that hasn’t stopped the brand from taking it down a notch with this year’s Ref. 7121/200G, which houses a moonphase in its 33mm case.