On Her Watch: How new materials are revolutionising watchmaking, as Chanel, Rolex, Van Cleef & Arpels, Omega and more brands create exciting women’s timepieces with modern elements and techniques
- In the fourth of STYLE’s series on timepieces for women, we look at how experimentation in materials is ushering in an exciting time for watchmaking
- From sapphire crystal enabling skeletonised watches to the ultra-luxe feel of paved diamonds, and whisper-thin models made with industrial materials, this is a thrilling era for horology indeed
It’s often been argued that there have been few truly novel and impactful technical advances in horology over the last 300 years. Save for the invention of quartz, there was not much – mechanically speaking – that the revered master watchmakers of the mid- to late- 18th century hadn’t already figured out.
But watchmaking is not just about the movement, but creating devices that are beautiful and creative, and in those respects, it’s never been a more thrilling time for horology. We’ve seen in the last few decades the emergence of a number of unconventional material choices, at the same time as witnessing the staying power of age-old ones. Here are just a few stand-outs.
Sapphire crystal
A material that’s broken into the watchmaking world in a big way is sapphire crystal, a synthetic glasslike material known for its extreme hardness and transparency. The hefty price tag has less to do with its intrinsic value, but rather the arduous process of polishing and cutting the extremely hard material, and the expensive tools it requires.
Used mainly in watch cases, sapphire crystal is either combined with other precious materials, or used on its own – such as in Hublot’s sleek Big Bang Unico Sapphire watch – rendering the piece completely transparent. In Jacob & Co’s Astronomia Tourbillon Black Ceramic & Red, its complex tourbillon movement is highlighted within a ceramic case with four sapphire crystal windows arranged around its periphery.
Chanel’s J12 X-ray Red Edition is delicate but no less robust, where the case highlights the baguette-cut ruby hour markers, making it appear as though they’re floating. Another is Chanel’s Boy·Friend X-ray Red Edition, the case giving this otherwise reserved model an edgy aesthetic, while affording the wearer an amazing view of the calibre’s inner workings.
Lightweight materials
Innovative industrial materials such as carbon, titanium and ceramic is used in watches that are strong enough to withstand every day wear and extreme sports, all while being lightweight and ergonomic.