How Van Cleef & Arpels made high jewellery out of the humble zip – Wallis Simpson spoke about the new fastener to the brand’s creative director, and the Zip necklace was born

STORYNicolette Wong

Nov 16 , 2021

Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, inspired Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic Zip necklace. Photo: Sotheby’s

High Jewellery

The royal told VCA creative director Renée Puissant about the then-new zip fastener, which featured in her favourite Elsa Schiaparelli fashion designs

With jewellery designer René Sim Lacaze, Puissant spent over a decade developing a functional, transformable piece that has since become distinctive of the luxury brand

What: Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace

When: 1950

Legacy: Technical mastery that made an everyday object extraordinary

Zip necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, c. 1954. Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels

Designers often say that extraordinary inspiration can come from the most ordinary of places. The archetypal example is surely Van Cleef & Arpels’ legendary Zip necklace. The story dates back to the late 1930s, when then-Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, was talking to then-creative director of Van Cleef & Arpels, Renée Puissant, about the fascinating new clothing fastener that had just made its way into her couture clothing (designs by Elsa Schiaparelli, to be exact – the duchess’ favourite).

The Zip Antique Duo necklace is made with white gold, round and baguette-cut diamonds, one asscher-cut DIF diamond of 2.10 carats, and onyx and white cultured pearls. Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels

Puissant’s creative juices started to flow, and with the help of jewellery designer René Sim Lacaze, she began the process of elevating the humble zip, using precious materials to catapult it into the rarefied arena of high jewellery.

The Zip Ruby necklace is made with white gold, round diamonds, 128 pear-shaped rubies for 64.21 carats (Mozambique) and white cultured pearls. Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels

Although the initial inspiration might have come in an instant, the necklace was so technically difficult to create that it took over a decade to bring it to life. Part of the challenge lay in making each tooth of the zip completely functional, even when created from soft precious metals such as gold and platinum. This would enable it to be worn open as a necklace or closed as a bracelet, gifting the piece with a transformative functionality characteristic of Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations.