Are sweater vests sexy? 6 men’s fashion trends for autumn/winter: Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Fendi and Hermès mix WFH styles with vintage flair – think 70s velvet and lots of leather

Sep 5 , 2021

Loose and laid-back is the look of the moment as WFH effects men’s autumn/winter styles. Photos (from left): Louis Vuitton, Hermès,
Valentino, Prada, Fendi, Tod’s. — Loose and laid-back is the look of the moment as WFH effects men’s autumn/winter styles. Photos (from left): Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Valentino, Prada, Fendi, Tod’s.

Colours run from caramel (Burberry, Tod’s, Loewe) to bright reds (Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga, Givenchy) while silhouettes get looser, larger and loungier

Karl Lagerfeld didn’t approve of sweatpants, but office wear for the ‘new normal’ shows the effect of remote working – or channels Mao suits and uniforms

You’ve probably heard of the “hemline index”, which suggests the length of women’s skirts rise or fall in parallel with share prices. The higher the hemline, the better the economy, or so it goes. But there are those who say men’s style is equally affected by the ebbs and flows of socioeconomic sentiment. For instance, skinny lapels and slim trousers tend to dominate during austere periods, while bold shoulderpads, fat ties and voluminous pants prevail in boomtimes, like the 1950s and 80s.

Check this for autumn/winter. Photo: Hermes

So if we accept this general thesis, what do autumn/winter 2021 men’s collections have to say about the here and now? Clearly, as we navigate the Covid-19 crisis and a switch to more home-based employment, the attitude as to what constitutes proper “work wear” has evolved and loungey garments previously only sported around the house have become acceptable attire in public.

Runways these days are rife with robes, pyjama-style apparel and loose drawstring trousers. Whether this reflects a laid-back optimism, getting settled into the “new normal”, or a sense of resignation is open to discussion. As the late, great Karl Lagerfeld once put it, “Sweatpants are a sign of defeat.” Take it easy, sure – but try not to get too comfortable this winter, gentlemen. We’ve got work to do.

1. Vested interest

Loose and laid-back is very much the look of the moment. Photo: Hermes

The clearest trend of the autumn/winter 2021 menswear collections? The sweater vest appears poised for omnipresence this season. Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Etro, Fendi, MSGM, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Prada were just some of the names to present iterations of this sleeveless torso-warmer, with styling running the gamut from grandfatherly garden-wear to neon 1990s nightclub knits.

Respected fashion journalist and author of the new book, What Artists Wear, Charlie Porter counsels, “As with most garments, think about sense rather than trend. Sweater vests work if your lifestyle involves time spent outdoors, like the men in Molly Goddard’s show who looked ready for a glorious day of hiking, their charmingly coloured Fair Isle sweater vests layered under their wool jackets.”